Sunday, August 16, 2015

Gateway to the Black Sea-#15: Prague Jewish Quarter and Terezin

Fri. June 19--Prague: The morning began with a walking tour of the Jewish Quarter and its synagogues and the Jewish Cemetery. The oldest synagogue was built in the tenth century and is the only one still used for services; the others are now museums. Prague had a Jewish population of 120,000 before the war and their systematic extermination. Now there are about 1800 and the small, old synagogue is plenty of room for them. In the Pinkas Synagogue we saw the walls full of tiny hand printed lists of the names and dates for the many who died. 
Jewish Quarter in Prague

Interesting clock on the City Hall in Jewish Quarter

Pinkas Synagogue

Name after name after name....

...on every wall for room after room after room.

Then we went through the cemetery where bodies have been buried for several centuries so people are stacked 12 deep and the old stones are piled together. It was very sobering. 



We strolled down the Street of Paris, the most expensive part of Prague with its beautiful Art Nouveau apartment buildings that were built around the turn of last century and visited the Spanish Synagogue (so named for its interior decorations, not for its nationality). The Old Town Square was a short walk away but the group got smaller and smaller as we made our way there because it was lunchtime. 
Pařížská (Paris) Street connecting the Jewish quarter to Old Town

Beautiful Spanish Synagogue is now a museum

Tyne Church on Old Town Square 

Streets of Old Town

St. Nicholas Church on Old Town Square

Astronomical Clock 

Buildings on Old Town Square

Enjoying a Trdelnik: Dough wrapped on a fat metal rod and cooked over a fire,
 then sprinkled with cinnamon sugar from the stand in the background

Ross, Pat, Marv and I stayed for the whole tour and then hustled back to the hotel. We picked up the lunches we had packed and met our Gray Line Bus for a trip we had lined up ahead of time to Terezin, about an hour away. Terezin was built as a military post in 1789, to stand between the Prussian and Habsburg empires. It consists of the big and the small fortifications. The smaller was used as a prison and the larger was barracks and homes for troops. Both are well fortified and surrounded by walls and moats. During WWII the Nazis put political prisoners in the prison far exceeding its capacity and known for its inhumane conditions. Jews from all over were brought or death marched to the larger fortification which became a village sized ghetto. A propaganda film was made there promoting it as a Jewish sanctuary where it was self-governed and a generally happy place to stay. After it was made every actor was taken to Auschwitz and immediately gassed. Terezin became a sort of way-station where Jews were gathered and registered and then sent on to Concentration Camps. Many died in Terezin as sickness and lack of sanitation and supplies overwhelmed the growing masses. Dissidents were sent to the prison, where conditions were even worse. It was very chilling and not exactly enjoyable, but it was an important trip to make. 
Building we saw from the bus as we rode to Terezin

Castle District on the hill as we left Prague for Terezin

Countryside driving to Terezin


Cemetery/Memorial outside the gates of the smaller fortification

Large and small fortifications of Terezin with photos from the area

Work shall make you free

Bunks in one building of the prison

Sinks installed to impress the Red Cross inspectors but never plumbed with water

There are many yards of passageway within the wall of the
fortification of the prison. We followed this one for a long way.

Memorial Statue

The streets of the larger, village-like fortification of Terezin

Wall of pictures in the stairway of the village Museum

Cemetery/Memorial at the Crematorium in Terezin

Crematorium maintained as a Memorial 

Back at the hotel we rested and cleaned up and then walked over to the Czech restaurant across the street for a traditional dinner of duck, sausage, two kinds of cabbage, and dumplings. It was yummy and filling. When it got dark Marv and I again ventured out, this time walking all the way back to Old Town Square to mingle with the boisterous and energetic crowds of people. 
          Na zdraví !

Czech Good Eatin'!!

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