Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Gateway to the Black Sea--#13: Bratislava, Slovakia

Wed. June 17-Bratislava, Slovakia: After a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel the whole group was picked up by The Golden Express, a small tram that looked like a train and drove us up the hill to the Rhad Castle. Along the way our guide, Katrina, thoroughly entertained us with her dry, sardonic wit as she pointed out the high points of the city. At the castle, she walked us around, filling us in on the history of both it and the city in general. From the grounds one can look out to the south and see Hungary, Austria, and Slovakia.  Around the other side there are the beginnings of the Carpathian Mountains. She said there are still people who can say they lived in three countries (Hungary, who used the city as its capital when the Turks took over Bucharest, Czechoslovakia under the USSR, and Slovakia) while never moving out of Bratislava. 
Our map showing Bratislava, Slovakia's location

Rhad Castle

Courtyard of Rhad Castle

How the castle used to look.

Posing by one of the gates

Looking south over Hungary(left), Austria(right), and Slovakia(foreground)

The Express then took us to the Old Town where Katrina led us on about a 45 minute tour of the area, part of which is still walled and where there are some vestiges of the moat that surrounded the city in the 1400s. At the end of the tour, we had the choice of taking the Express back to the hotel or staying to wander on our own, so, of course, we stayed. We went in and out of the many intriguing courtyards and narrow cobblestone streets, and explored every nook and cranny. Around lunchtime we went to a traditional Slovak restaurant just inside one of the old gates of the city where we sat outside and enjoyed sour cabbage soup with hearty bread and a dark Slovak Golden Pheasant beer. It made for a very filling and satisfactory lunch. 
Looking down one of the larger streets in Old Town

One of seven comic brass sculptures in Old Town.
This one looks like soldier coming out of a manhole

Charming straw animals in the Market


Traditional beer, cheese and cabbage soup for lunch

A narrow lane

Another narrow lane

After about an hour more of wandering, Pat and Ross headed back to the hotel while Marv and I continued walking. We headed to the Hospital Garden, beside the hospital from the 1800s, and after a short rest on the benches by the swan fountain, continued past the old cemetery and into a neighborhood district. The day was windy and had turned cloudy with a high in the 60s, a stark contrast to the mid-90s of the past few days. We came across a neighborhood coffee shop full of locals, where we shared a piece of Kuba Rec (chocolate-banana cake) and had .99eu coffee--a third of the price anywhere else. It made a nice place to refresh but was very hot in there so we didn't linger like we might have. 

Eventually we made it back to the hotel having walked for several hours so who knows how far. We had a short rest then went with the Macks to one of the cafes behind the hotel for more coffee while they had creme brulee. There is a grocery store in the lower level of the mall where we bought cheese, bread, sausage, raspberries and chocolates. With the bottle of champagne from the ship and the bottle of Serbian wine we had bought, we had a delightful dinner sitting on benchlike steps beside the Danube and agreed it couldn't get much better than that. It was cool, as it would be for the rest of the trip, which was a contrast to the week before. Since we had to have our bags outside our door at 7:45 the next morning to be loaded on the bus, we made an early evening of it, having thoroughly enjoyed learning about and experiencing this totally new-to-us part of the world.
A Feast!!


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