The Savage Traveler: Out West Adventure: Part 1--Patagonia Lake (Sat. and Sun.)

(Saturday) Today was cleaning day, so after oatmeal for breakfast we vacuumed the camper and the front mats of the truck, wiped down the bathroom, did dishes, and I washed my hair. Marv also greased the right wheel of the camper that has seemed to leak a bit of grease. We relaxed for a few minutes and read before Barb and Joe Wohlfert came down from their winter home in Green Valley to spend the day. Their GPS had taken them the same crazy route ours tried to take so they were a bit frazzled and worried about being late. But we were just in time for the 11:30 History Tour of the lake by pontoon boat for which we had reserved 4 of the 9 seats available. It was a low key, pleasant trip around the west end of the lake that got us into some of the canyons and inlets we hadn’t been able to see or explore. We didn’t see much wildlife but we did learn that a group of ranchers in the area had conceived of the idea of damming the creek, making a reservoir, and selling lakefront lots as a way to make money in 1968. It took until 1971 for the lake to fill and then they couldn’t make enough money to support the venture so they gave the lake and some land to the State. Back on land, showed them the camper and chatted for a bit before deciding to go into Patagonia (the village) to look around. First we had a great lunch at the Velvet Elvis (named for the “art form”, not for the King). The four of us split a great Specialty pizza with spinach, tomatoes, fresh basil, and feta on a whole wheat crust. And each couple shared one of their wonderful salads. Everything is homemade, organic, and delicious so we were very happy with our choice. We wandered the small town, stopping in the many little art galleries and shops along the main street, across from the historic railroad depot in the center of town. One shop was having a “Love-a-thon” sale day and they had a great spread of hummus, pita chips, olives, wine, desserts, and chocolates, but we were too stuffed from lunch to have much interest. When we had exhausted the block of shops we drove to Patous’ Bird Sanctuary, at the edge of town. The Patous were known worldwide for the wonderful birds (particularly hummingbirds) that were drawn to their modest backyard sanctuary and their many feeders. The couple has since died, but the Audubon Society is keeping the place up and continuing to feed the birds. There is a small shade awning set-up with chairs underneath it and people come from all over to sit and watch the birds. We saw many lesser goldfinches and a slew of Gamble’s Quails as well as a beautiful Pyrrhuloxia (a relative of the Northern Cardinal). I spoke with a knowledgeable young man there who was very excited about the Northern Cardinals there and he was surprised to know that they are so common back in Michigan. There were no hummingbirds today and they don’t stock the feeders in the winter because the only hummers present now are Anna’s hummingbirds. After a while we drove to a nearby Conservancy but felt we didn’t have time or the inclination to do it justice for the $5.00 per person entry fee, so we returned to the Coffee Shop in Patagonia to people watch and talk for a bit more. Finally we returned to the campground to chat some more until around 5:00, when the Wohlferts headed back to Green Valley. We took the kayak out for one last paddle at sunset and got some nice pictures. It was cooling off and growing dark as we got back. So Marv made a batch of cornbread and we heated up the rest of the chili for dinner and had another quiet evening in our cozy camper.

Marv, Peggy, Barb and Joe at the Velvet Elvis

"Downtown" Patagonia

Sunset kayaking on Patagonia Lake

Black-Crowned Night Heron

(Super Bowl Sunday) Since we had a reservation at an RV Park near Green Valley we didn’t have to hurry much to leave Patagonia Lake in the morning. This was good since we needed to deflate and put away the kayak. But after a quick breakfast of yogurt and bread with p.b. we got everything packed and were on the road by about 10:00. It was only about an hour down to Nogales and then north on I19 to our exit. We set up in the RV park and made turkey wraps for lunch. Then we made sure everything was in the truck that we would need and we drove to nearby Madera Canyon. It is a National Forest site in the Santa Rita Mountains, nearly directly west of where we were on Patagonia Lake. On a nearby peak is the Wipple Observatory, which is accessed from this side but we could see clearly from the State Park. Starting from 2900ft. we drove steeply up into the canyon as our mileage dropped to 9mpg. Our first stop was at the lodge where John and Mary Ann had told us there were many bird feeders with interesting visitors. While we were there we saw many Wild Turkeys, Mexican Jays, and a rare Acorn Woodpecker. We also saw two fat and furry coatimundi who enjoy the easy pickings under the feeders. The temperature had dropped from the high sixties to 60° and there was a bit of drizzle in the air. There were also small snow packs along the edge of the roof that were melting in rivulets over the porch. The narrower and narrower road ended with picnic areas and trailheads at 5400ft. We opted to take part of the Old Baldy Trail, which climbed steeply up the hillside and afforded wonderful views down the canyon to Green Valley and up to the mountains surrounding us. Twenty-five minutes of strenuous climbing seemed adequate for us and so we made our way back down to the truck to drive back the road we had driven. Partway down we explored the small Bogg Spring campground. We had thought we would camp there for a night or two but had been discouraged from trying it by the Ranger at Kartchner Caverns, who thought it would be too cold. We were sorry to see that it would have been fine with their nice sites, level pads, and water at each site. The campground was about half full and it would have cost us only $5 with Marv’s Golden Eagle Pass. Oh well, next time we’ll know! Coming down from the Canyon we went miles before we had to accelerate and got the maximum 99.9mpg. It was good enough to bring our daily mileage from Patagonia to over 19mpg. We mailed a letter in Green Valley and did some shopping at Frye’s (which is an affiliate of Kroger’s) and then went to Barb and Joe’s home for a delicious deep dish pizza and salad, and to watch the Baltimore Ravens beat the San Francisco 49ers in a close Super Bowl Game. While we were there we did two loads of laundry. What great hosts! We drove back to the RV Park before 10:00 and Marv showered while I wrote this blog. Tomorrow it’s on to Tucson!