Feb. 16-18: (Saturday) We took down the camper this morning with an
audience! Barb and Frank, the couple camped next to us from Montana, were
intrigued with our TrailManor and wanted to see how it went down and packed up.
She had been very solicitous of my injury and Marv’s Mom’s predicament, which
she had overheard as Marv talked on the phone. They invited us to visit them on
the second part of our adventure but then realized it will be while they are at
Frank’s “homeland, The Netherlands, with their entire family. But we did exchange
email addresses and then we were on our way. Before leaving the park we stopped
at their little Nature Center/Gift Shop and then decided to try the short trail
up to a lookout. I was pleased to find that my ankle with a brace on it could
manage just fine. But my ribs were still really hurting. Highway 62 took us
across the Colorado at Parker and into California and the Mojave Desert. The
road stretched before us endlessly as we drove beside miles of an embankment
lined with rock messages and names. We could see mountains around us in the
distance on all sides but traveled through a flat valley pretty much the whole
way to 29 Palms, where we came to the first Joshua Tree National Park Visitor
Center. We stopped there to stamp our National Park Passport Book, get maps and
information and eat our picnic lunch. From there we came across a Medical
Center where we stopped to see if they had Urgent Care but they directed us
down the road to a place in Yucca Valley. When we checked in there we were told
that the X-Ray Technician wasn't there but would be on Sunday so we took the
paper work and went on to Black Rock Canyon Campground. It was a good thing we
had a reservation because all the Joshua Tree campgrounds are full on account
of Presidents’ Day Weekend! We hadn't even thought about that. Many of the
sites are occupied by tenters with lots of kids who seem to belong together in
some way. They were pretty noisy when we pulled in in the late afternoon, but
settled down as it got later and darker. Marv had picked out a nice
drive-through site online that has no one camping across from us and is on the
end of the loop so we only had the site on one side of us occupied. When they
pulled in late in the evening and cranked up their generator we were a bit
exasperated, but they turned it off earlier than required and didn't run it
again until the next morning. Although we have no electricity or water at the
site, and only cold water flush toilets, we found that we had a good enough
phone and 3G signal to listen to the Spartans pull out a win over Nebraska and
keep track of developments with Marv’s Mom, who was supposed to be released on
Sunday. We’re at about 4000 feet but look straight down the canyon to Yucca
Valley. It is much cooler up here but it’s a nice campground with a great view.
As the sun set it cooled off quickly to the high forties but didn't get much
lower. We had our leftover grilled chicken and played two games of Cribbage
before bed.
|
Black Rock Canyon Campsite with Joshua Trees |
(Sunday) It got down to the low forties but we had so many layers
on that we were actually a bit too warm. As the sun came up and the coffee
perked the camper warmed up nicely. Soon after turning off their generator our
neighbors packed up and pulled away, apparently forfeiting their second night
reservation; this was fine with us! We made French Toast and read the LSJ
before making a picnic and going off to explore the interior of Joshua Tree
National Park. Joshua Tree was made a National Monument in the 1930s and then a
National Park in 1991. The two distinguishing features are the fantastical rock
formations, which range from piles of huge, smooth boulders to what look like
giant loaves of bread or rolls of cookie dough that someone has cut in fat
slices, and the Dr. Seuss-like Joshua Trees, which are actually a yucca but
have a rough barked main trunk like a deciduous tree. Their shallow root
systems and need for water in the desert mean that the “forests” stretch on for
acres of widely spaced trees no more than 30 feet high in most cases. They are
as distinctive and unusual to us mid-westerners as the Saguaros of the Sonoran
Desert. We returned to the Joshua Tree West entrance and drove in Park
Boulevard to the southern terminus at Keys View. From the 5,185FT elevation we
could overlook a stunning expanse of valley, mountain, and desert, including
the San Andreas Fault running through the valley. There was a park ranger named
Joshua present to answer questions and we asked him about our fears for the
strong weather front that was forecast for Tuesday and into Wednesday, when we
were supposed to be at Agua Caliente at about 4000ft. He agreed that it didn’t
sound like that would work very well and suggested we go to the Salton Sea
State Recreation Area, which we could see miles below us in the valley. The Sea
is over 200ft below sea level and isn’t likely to see the winds and snow that
we would have at Agua Caliente. From
Keys View we retraced our path back to Hidden Valley and drove to Barker Dam,
where a ranger was leading a hike at 1:00. We put our picnic lunch into a back
pack and first took the 2.2 mile hike to Wall Street Mill, a gold stamping mill
from the 1930s until 1961. We took the wrong fork and ended up at the base of
massive boulders with people climbing in some areas. But it was warm and sunny
so we sat on the rocks and ate lunch. All we saw of the mill were a rusted out
old truck and the remains of a dwelling but we felt like we needed to get back
to join the ranger-led hike. When we got back to it, we realized that it was
going to be full of Junior Rangers and really geared towards children so we set
off on the 1.1 mile hike ahead of the ranger. There are interpretive signs and
plenty of people so it was easy to follow. Barker Dam was built around 1900 to
hold water for cattle and mining use, back when 10 inches of rain fell on
average each year. Now the area gets 2-5 inches of rain and cattle ranches are
no longer viable. There is supposed to be a small rain-fed reservoir behind the
dam abounding in birds, but it was dry, dry, dry when we were there. We wondered
if the forecast rain/snow will fill it this week. The walk was still
interesting with some easy rock scrambling, lots of desert plants, and even
some petroglyphs from nomadic Native Americans long ago. From that area we
decided to do some sand/gravel back roads to get away from the crowds. We took
Queen Valley Road to Big Horn Pass Road to Odele Road back to Queen Valley
Road. The roads are so narrow that if one meets another vehicle, one of them
needs to pull up the bank on the side to let the other go by! At the point to
Queen Valley Road and Desert Queen Mine Road we took the short hike to the
overlook for Desert Queen Mine. The mine was started in 1895 by Frank James (of
the James Brothers). When he was shot along with Jesse, the cowboy who shot him
took over the mine. It had many owners over the years and was closed in the
1960s. The mine shafts have been covered with grates by the Park Service to
protect visitors but there are many artifacts left from the operations. It’s
possible to hike down into the canyon to get a better look but we opted not to
do so. Desert Queen Mine Road took us back to the east side of Park Boulevard
and out of the park at the North Entrance Station. As we left the park and
drove down to 29 Palms, the air temperature rose from 62° to 74° and our
mileage was at 99.9+ as we coasted for several miles. We saw gas for $4.03,
instead of the $4.35 we saw in Yucca Valley so we went ahead and filled the
truck. Then we stopped for groceries before going back up the canyon to our
campsite, where the temperatures were again in the low sixties. Marv called his
mom, who was home from the hospital, and his Aunt Mary, to tell her what had
happened. We added the leftover pork to baked beans and had that with salad. We
did all the dishes and then watch some Northern Exposures before crawling
gratefully into bed. It had been a good but tiring day!
|
Wall Street Mill Hike |
|
San Andreas Fault running through the valley with Palm Springs at the base of the mountain |
|
Cookie Roll or Loaf of Bread? You decide |
|
In the shade of a Joshua Tree |
|
Boulder piles against the blue, blue sky |
(Monday) Happy Presidents’ Day!! This morning we were surrounded by
people packing up their camps and we had the satisfaction of knowing we have
another full day to explore this amazing park. However, my ribs were as bad as
ever so we started the day with hot oatmeal, packing another picnic lunch and
heading down to Avalon Urgent Care Center. Within an hour and a half I had been
checked out and had 4 x-rays taken. The doctor said that 1) the ankle was a bad
sprain but not broken (which I figured), 2) the “floaties” in my left eye
probably had nothing to do with the fall, were perhaps because I’m not used to
the dry air of the desert and should go away without treatment, and 3) my rib
muscles were strained and inflamed but nothing seemed to be dislocated or
broken. He faxed a prescription to a nearby Rite-Aid for a strong
anti-inflammatory and said to apply ice and heat to both the ribs and the ankle
and not to lift anything heavy for a while. By about 11:30 we had the pills and
were on our way back to the park. We
went to Hidden Valley Campground just to walk around and see what other
accommodations are available. Then we drove to the meeting place for our 1:00
ranger-led tour of the Keys Ranch, for which we had to register and pay ahead
of time. We were half an hour early so we enjoyed our lunch while sitting in
the warm sun but the temperature was only in the mid-fifties. The ranger,
Joshua, met the small group and gave general instructions before unlocking the
gate and having us drive a mile into the parking area. We then had a two hour,
tightly held, somewhat slow presentation on Bill and Frances Keys and the ranch
on which they managed to prosper and raise 4 kids from about 1920 until first
Frances and then Bill (in 1960 at age 90) passed away and were buried on the
ranch. The ranch is pretty much as they
left it, including the amazing amount of scavenged parts and building materials
which Bill kept for his use and to sell to others through the years. There is a
main house, many outbuildings, and a school house with a separate home for the
school mar’m, several wells, a chicken coop, gold mining and stamping
equipment, three dams, the list goes on and on! A park volunteer who lives on
site was along for crowd control, I guess, and no one was allowed to wander
around much. We couldn’t go in any buildings, partly for fear of the asbestos
and the parvovirus from rodent droppings. Yosemite had a lot of trouble with
parvovirus and some people even died so National Parks are being particularly
careful now. We both really enjoyed the tour and were fascinated by this look
at some rugged individualists who were willing to live out in the wilderness
and make a go of it. After the ranch tour, Marv and I drove to a couple of
spots for him to do some rock scrambling, which I passed on, not wanting to
push the ankle TOO much. We took Park Boulevard down through Wilson Canyon
approaching the wide, flat Pinto Valley, driving through the transition area
between the high Mojave Desert and the lower Colorado Desert, which is a subsection
of the Sonoran Desert. The difference in plants, with Cholla and ocotillo in
the Colorado and yuccas and Joshua Trees in the Mojave, are obvious even to our
uneducated eyes. At one point along the road the conditions are just perfect
for Cholla and the park has a “Cholla Garden” walk with an informative brochure
highlighting what we were seeing. The abundance of Teddy Bear, or Jumping,
Cholla was just amazing and it was fascinating to walk the path. We made our
way out of the park for the last time as the sun was setting and it gave
everything a whole new rosy glow. As we drove into Black Rock Canyon a coyote
trotted across the road in front of us. The campground, which had been full
over the weekend, was nearly empty and we now shared our loop with only one
other RV, halfway down the circle from us. It was getting dark at our campsite
and as usual the temperature dropped quickly. Marv got things put away in the
truck that were outside the camper to prepare to leave tomorrow while I put
together leftovers with a can of Progresso soup to make a hearty stew for
dinner. The wind was getting gusty and we were even more convinced that going
to Salton Sea tomorrow would be a better choice than heading into mountains in
the face of a winter storm.
|
Outbuildings on the Keys Ranch |
|
Marvin on the Rocks |
|
Low sun behind the Teddy Bear Cholla |
|
Peggy itching to give the Teddy Bear a big hug |
|
Cholla Cactus Garden |
|
Marv climbing the rocks |