Sunday, March 31, 2013

Panama: Day 3

Sunday, March 31: HAPPY EASTER! We are now sitting by the tiny pool at Hostel Michelle in Panama City at 8:30 in the evening. We enjoyed another leisurely morning with coffee at the bird feeders and saw a blue-crowned Motmot, their most exotic visitor. By the time we packed and checked out, Bruschetta's was no longer serving breakfast so we went to the same place as yesterday.
Outside Kris & Heidi's Cabana

Easter Breakfast in El Valle de Anton
After a short visit to a small zoo to see the highly endangered Golden Frog, we continued on to a hotel whose grounds include an 800 meter hike up the mountainside to see rare square (trunked) trees that grow only in the rainforests of Panama and Costa Rico. True to its name, we were rained on much of the way but it was warm enough to feel good. By the time we circled our way back, the rain had stopped. I saw a toucan again and we came across several lines of leaf cutter ants diligently making their way across the jungle floor. Then we had to leave this lush valley and join the heavy lines of traffic returning from Easter Holidays. After crawling for several miles the Panama Police Force was out in large numbers to open another eastbound lane on the westbound side and speeds picked up considerably. We found the Hostel Michelle where Ivonne greeted us and urged us to make ourselves at home. We will stay here tonight and then return here for Wednesday through Friday nights so she encouraged us to take a taxi to the airport tomorrow at 5:00am to fly to the San Blas Islands. Leaving the car with our extra stuff behind her locked gates will solve several problems for us. We walked to the nearby Waikiki Grill for Hawaiian-Panamanian food for dinner (only our second meal of the day!) and then repacked for our two day adventure to Dad-Ibe Lodge.

A Golden Frog

Walking across the river 

A Square Tree

Peggy & Marv standing in the Square Tree Grove

Leaf Cutter Ants

Panama: Day 2

Saturday, March 30: Our internal clocks woke us at 7:15 after a good night's sleep so we got dressed quickly and went down to enjoy a cup of coffee and watch the birds at Meriya's 8 just-filled bird feeders. We saw three kinds of tanagers, two kinds of parrots and many others, which Meriya identified for us with pride. She is very friendly and talkative, and although retired, a teacher to the core. At one point her brother, Mario, who is an internationally known bird expert, dropped by to talk. He has written three books on birds and takes groups birding for $40 per person for a half day. We both caught up on some computer work on our tablets and we learned that Michigan State had lost their Sweet Sixteen game to Duke by 10 points. So sad. Eventually we were hungry and decided to walk to town for breakfast. As we were leaving Kris came out and said that Heidi was still dressing. At the main house Meriya was talking to two people from Uruguay, one of whom is a musicologist who has studied indigenous music all over the world and started a museum to collect them. His name is Carlos Blanco Fadol and his companion showed us part of a YouTube video (click to view) about him. He took us out by the bird feeders and played haunting music on a wooden flute to attract the birds. Cone the parrot reacted strongly to it, singing and chattering and bobbing his head quite animatedly.
Cone, the Red-Lored Amazon Parrot

Gray-necked Wood-Rail 

Blue-Crowned Motmot

Carlos Blanco Fadol with our host, Meriya

We finally walked to town and ate breakfast outside on the porch at Mansiela's, a Panamanian food restaurant. It was after noon by the time we returned to Potosi, so we made our plan for the day.
Shooting the breeze with Dennis and making our plans for the day

 *Las Mozes Waterfall--a short drive south and a short but challenging hike to two small falls. The river was full of locals enjoying the warm water cascades. We weren't dressed for swimming and rain was drizzling down off and on so we didn't stay long.
The tumbling river

Kris & Heidi go around the trickiest part of the river

Marv & Peggy go around the narrow part of the bank
*El Macho Waterfall--This rainforest area is protected because the landowner in the 1940s refused to allow a hydroelectric plant. It was lush and rainy. For $3.50 each we borrowed a walking stick and did their short Nature Hike to the 115ft. cascade, with interpretive signs along the way. It was really beautiful. The area also has a zip line and a natural swimming pool. As we got in the car I noticed two keel-billed toucans in a nearby tree!
The lovely cascade in the rainforest

A toucan in the wild

* From there we drove past a huge chicken farm,  which had paved part of the steep road, up to El Gaital National Park. This very remote mountain area has a rough path along the mountainside that we followed for a short way. It was noticeably cooler and pleasant.
Trail at El Gaital National Park

By the time we finished it was after 4:00 and we hadn't had lunch so we went back to town and bought fresh bakery goods, beer, and wine, which we enjoyed with our leftovers from Artash's Friday night while sitting on the porch outside the cabanas. There was a women's processional at 8:00 so we found a porch table at Carlito's where they were out of nearly everything and dinner took two hours. The silent procession with a statue of Mary went by one direction and returned later. It was a contrast to the night before when the band led the processional. After they returned, the real partying began with loud fire crackers. Back at Polosi the bar at the corner had a live band and DJ and it sounded like they were on the other side of the property. We relaxed and talked on the porch for a while and then went to bed,  grateful for ear plugs.
The silent Women's Procession

Panama: Day 1

Friday, Mar. 29: The wind is howling and the palm fronds and bamboo are rattling noisily outside our cabana at Cabanas Potosi in El Valle de Anton, Panama. We stayed overnight at Kris and Heidi's house in order to make a quick getaway after rising at 4:15am this morning to catch our flight from Lansing to Chicago. From there it was was an uneventful 5 1/2 hour flight to Panama City. We watched "Pitch Perfect" as an inflight movie and had a nice lunch of chicken raviolis. There were no problems as we went through immigration, picked up our luggage, went through customs and got our rent-a-car, a blue Toyota Rav4. Then through the combined efforts of Marv and Google Maps we drove more than 2 hours to El Valle. The horrendous traffic of which we had been warned was a complete "no show" until we arrived at the tiny village where the streets were full of people out celebrating Good Friday. Panamanians flock to the interior to celebrate the Easter weekend and El Valle, with its pleasant temperatures in the 80s during the day, is very popular. Meriya told us that she had had 20 people call or come to try to rent one of their 4 cabanas and was worried that we would be a no-show. Luckily, Dennis was sure we would come and wouldn't let her give away our 2 cabanas. This Ecolodge is just what we had hoped for and will be a wonderful home base for us as we explore the area. On Dennis's recommendation we went to a small restaurant in town called Artash's where we sat on the porch of the owner/cook's home with two other parties and enjoyed a very delicious and reasonable dinner. In this quiet setting we could hear the band playing in the nearly two hour Good Friday procession a few streets away.  Marv and I stopped by the main house to find out that #4 seed Michigan had won its Sweet 16 game against #1 seed Kansas to advance. Unfortunately the Panamanian Sports channel had shown two games and was done for the night so we couldn't watch to see how #3 seed Michigan State does in its match against #2 seed Duke. Marv and I sat in a picnic shelter to enjoy the warm wind and 70s temperature before going to bed, listening to the customary fierce winds blow.
El Valle "downtown" church

Welcome Sign

Looking through the gate and down the drive

Our two sided cabana

Our Cabana

Friday, March 8, 2013

Out West Adventure: Part 1--Heading Towards Home

March 3-6: (Sunday) Careful thought had to be given to closing the camper and packing to return home, leaving the truck and camper in storage for two months. But we still managed to get out of the campground by 11:00, fairly confident that we had done everything we had to, but leaving ourselves open to having to open the camper again. As we headed north and then east we quickly left behind the greater Los Angeles area and re-entered the Mohave Desert, even passing through forests of Joshua Trees again. The traffic heading south and west was heavy the entire way (Californians returning from a weekend in Los Vegas?) but our traffic was lighter. There were few exits or rest areas and we actually ate our lunch sitting in a McDonald’s parking lot. As we drove we managed to listen to most of the MSU/um basketball game which the Spartans lost by just one point at the very end. Even with going over two 4000+FT passes our mileage was over 22mpg because from then on it was a gradual downhill all the way to Nevada. We got to Las Vegas by about 3:30 and were pleasantly surprised by our well-situated Super 8 motel, which had large, clean rooms and a big enough parking lot that we could park the truck and camper out there until we turn it in. We settled ourselves in our room and then walked to the Strip. We visited The Bally, The Paris, shared a burrito and a margarita in The Mall, The Bellagio (with its lighted fountain show that we saw twice and Chihuilly glass ceiling), past Cesar’s Palace to the Mirage for the volcano show, and back to the Dueling Piano Bar at the Paris (which we decided was too loud without earplugs). We sat for a bit and shared a French pastry at a “street side” indoor cafĂ©, and finally back to the Super 8. We had walked over 6.5 miles and were gone (and on our feet most of the time) for 4 hours and 19 minutes. My dogs were barking!!!! Back at the room we had a drink and some cheese and crackers before hitting the sack.
Looking South on The Strip from Flamingo Blvd.

Looking North on The Strip from Flamingo Blvd.

Volcano Show at The Mirage

Chihully Ceiling at The Bellagio

(Monday) We had some fussing around to do in the morning, mailing a package to save on having a second bag, getting something for lunch, and buying gas, but eventually we were on our way an hour north on 15 to drive to Valley of Fire State Park. We came in from the south and drove north on the park road and managed to see most of the high points:
  1. Climbed on the red rocks at Arch Campground and then walked around the main Arch Rock
  2. Ate our picnic of a can of salmon and large soft Mexican bread rolls at a picnic area and then climbed the 80 steps up to Petroglyph Rock
  3. Took the hike to see the petrified logs
  4. Stopped at the Visitor Center to watch a video about the park and see some of the displays
  5. Drove the 6 mile scenic drive
  6. Hiked the Fire Wave Trail
  7. Hiked the Mouse Tank/Petroglyph Canyon Trail

And we did it all in about 6 hours! The park is really beautiful and we saw all the colors of the rainbow in the plants and the rock formations. The rock colors are like nothing we've seen before and we were really happy we took the time to do it. The lights and glitz of Las Vegas are interesting but this was really more our speed. As the sun set we drove into the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and followed the north shore drive which afforded us occasional views of the lake but always from pretty far away. We saw very few cars and lots of nice scenery so it was a good alternative to taking I15 back to the Super 8. It seemed easiest by then to have dinner at the Ellis Island Brewery and Casino, which is just across the drive from our hotel and we got our second pleasant surprise of the day. We had a great meal at a surprisingly small price and their “home brewed” beers were just $2 for a 20oz. glass! What a steal!! We consider that one of Las Vegas’ best kept secrets. Back in our room we worked on pictures and the blog, feeling like we had had enough walking for the day.
In Arch Rock Campground

One of many arches, but not "Arch Rock"

"The" Arch Rock

Rugged country


Atlatl Rock

A few of the petroglyphs, including the Atlatl for which it's named

Petrified log

Between a rock and a hard place?

Stone trail on Fire Wave Trail

Some of the Fire Waves on the trail

(Tuesday) We had plans today to meet Suzanne Stevens Aaron for lunch so we made final decisions on what to put in the truck and what to take home and then walked over to The Strip. We went to a half-price ticket booth but there was a good half-an-hour wait so instead it was back to The Paris, where Rob and Suzanne are staying for his conference. Suzanne and I had dressed very similarly and, with our matching curly hair, we all had a good laugh. The Candy Factory had a table next to the open wall-sized window on the patio by the street where we had a great view and could enjoy the lovely, sunny day. Rob managed to get away from the conference to join us. It was great to be able to spend some time him, too. After a good (but expensive!) lunch, we returned to the hotel to get the truck and camper to turn them in. We found the RV place without a problem and it was all as promised. Marv parked the camper next to an old Airstream trailer that is waiting to be renovated and raised the front jacks, parked the truck on the other side of the Airstream and disconnected the battery, and they called a cab for us, all in less than an hour. The friendly cab driver dropped us at The Mandalay Bay on the south end of The Strip and told us about the free tram we could take on to The Luxor and then to The Excalibur. From there we walked north to New York, New York and then The MGM. Along there we found a half-price ticket spot and bought tickets for an Improv Comedy Club for that evening. The Club is at Harrah’s so we had to walk north of Flamingo Street, south of which is our hotel, and about half an hour farther to redeem the tickets at the Box Office. I was REALLY dragging by then. Walking on sidewalk is so much harder on ones feet than walking on trails! We stopped off at the Ellis Island for another cheap beer and relaxed in our room for a while before returning there for a quick supper before returning yet again to Harrah’s for the 8:30 show. The MC and warm-up comedians were mildly amusing, not hilarious. Then a two man comedy team did some funny Improv bits. It wasn't an uproarious evening but it was fun and I think we were both glad we saw a show while in Las Vegas, since we didn't gamble at all. After walking back to the hotel for the last time, I was sorry I hadn't tracked our walking for the day but it had to be even more than the 6½ miles we had done our first day.
Our Room in Las Vegas

Marv, Peggy, Suzanne, & Rob

The Luxor

The Luxor

The Luxor Ceiling in the pyramid

New York with MGM across the street

(Wednesday) We could afford ourselves a relaxed morning and had breakfast at the Ellis Island restaurant before catching the shuttle to the airport. Our flight was delayed because of the snow in Chicago so it left about 50 minutes late. Our one bag was 46 pounds, well over Spirit Airlines’ ridiculously low 40 pound limit. We tried removing items to our backpacks but couldn't get below 42lbs. so begrudgingly paid $25 extra. This crummy airline doesn't offer so much as a cup of water without charging. NEVER AGAIN!!! The flight was uneventful although the young woman next to me had a cold and sniffed every few seconds the entire time and a 2 or 3 year old just behind us wailed continuously for at least an hour and a half; longer than I think possible for a normal child. We had missed the 7:15 Michigan Flyer so we had to wait for the 9:45, arriving home about midnight. Luckily our bodies thought it was 9:00. A Green Taxi got us home quickly, where Chalo had turned up the heat and the house was cozy. Everything looked to be in good order and we went to sleep in our own bed for the first time in 6½ weeks. As far as we can figure we had driven around 5700 miles in the first leg of our Out West Adventure and all of Marv’s hard work planning had worked out beautifully! Here’s hoping the next phase goes as smoothly. 

Out West Adventure: Part 1--Los Angeles

February 27-March 2: (Wednesday) We got up by 7:00 and closed up the trailer to head to Los Angeles for our last campground of this trip. We had told Ann Robertson that we would be at her condo by 1:00 for lunch. It took a little longer than expected to get to the city and then we had to frog around to find the campground, which is in Riverside. It turned out to be a pretty nice county park which must be really crowded in the summer. There are several camping loops, a miniature golf park, a big playground and a water play pad with a large concession area and several small “lakes” (ponds, really) all on a flat plain. The lakes attract birds and we saw a Great Blue Heron fly overhead, and the grass beside the lake had what must be hundreds of coots. The coots gather in huge groups and when one decides to walk somewhere else, the whole group will line up behind to move with the first. When I opened our door in the morning they all rushed over to me so they must be used to being fed. Our site is on the Lakeview loop which has about a half dozen sites taken and no one very near to us as we pulled in. We had time to get all set-up and then drove about an hour to get to Ann’s place in Anaheim. On our way out we drove through Riverside and past the historic Mission Inn, a sprawling complex of mostly Spanish revival architecture that has been the scene of several movies and has hosted many dignitaries. The Nixons were married there and the Reagans honeymooned there. I Googled it and read the history to Marv as he drove. Ann first lived in Long Beach for 14 years before her tax guy convinced her to buy a place. Her two bedroom condo has been totally redone and is very nice. She has lived in it for 25 years. We found it easily and she gave us “the tour” before we made sandwiches and sat in the sun on her patio to catch-up. Ann is well-settled into California having left Michigan when she was just 25 years old. Though she isn’t married she has a large and close circle of friends who look out for her and serve as her California family. After eating, Ann drove us to Huntington Beach, where we walked out on the pier to watch the surfers. It was breezy and a little cool so we stopped off at Rubie’s on the very end of the pier for coffee and to share one of their wonderful milkshakes, ours a peanut butter cup. Back at the condo Ann made a wonderful Greek chicken dish with rice and asparagus on the side for dinner. We talked and talked and ate and laughed until Marv and I made the hour trip back to the camper and bed.
Huntington Beach Pier 
At Rubie's on the pier

'nuff said


(Thursday) HAPPY BIRTHDAY, KEN!!! We finished up our milk with cereal for breakfast and then drove back to Ann’s again, hoping to be there in time to Skype with Ana and the boys before she went down for her nap. Our GPS failed us for the first time and drove us in circles on the freeway before getting things figured out so by the time we arrived Ana was down for her nap. Eli was home with a fever (strep throat he found out later from the doctor) and not his usual rambunctious self so we talked to the boys for a while. Afterwards Ann drove us all to downtown Los Angeles. First we went to the Farmers Market, which has been in the same spot since the 1030s. (Everywhere we drove she took different and meandering routes so we got to see a lot of the area, including the famous HOLLYWOOD sign on the hillside.) We walked all around the market before Ann and I got the vegetarian plate at Moishe’s while Marv found a bacon, Swiss, and avocado omelet for his lunch. Then we drove to the Le Brea Tar Pits and Page Museum, which I have always wanted to see. There is an amazing exhibit of some of the millions of bones that have been excavated from the tar pits and two places where you can observe volunteers and staff members working on removing and sifting through the specimens. I found it particularly fascinating. We tore ourselves away to go to Ann’s Assistance League headquarters for a program for which she had signed us all up about Medicare. While we waited for 4:00 she showed us their extensive collection of Chinese and Japanese articles bequeathed to the society with the stipulation that they be appropriately cared for and used to educate. She also showed us the display showing the six areas of philanthropic work they do. By then we thought people should be gathering so she checked with the front desk and found out that the Medicare workshop was yesterday. L Oh well… We went back to the condo and finally Skyped with Ana as Craig was getting the kids ready for bed. Then Ann chauffeured us one more time, this time to Long Beach, where she used to live. We went to the Belmont Brewing Company for dinner at an outdoor table on the patio next to the water, where Ann told us about the lights we were seeing, including the rigging on the Queen Mary which is in dry dock north of Long Beach. We had a good dinner with more laughs and talk, more talk back at her condo, and then Marv and I had to say our thanks and our good-byes. As we left I got an email from John Rogers concerned that we were in a fire zone. Sure enough, when we got back to the camper we found that a large fire was being fought about 100 yards away. The air was full of copters and planes and there were many emergency vehicles. But the slight breeze was blowing from us to the fire area and no one at the campground seemed concerned. The smell of smoke was heavy on the air but we didn’t see what choice we had but to go to sleep and see what our options were in the morning. And we had a new neighbor RIGHT next to us, with no one else to either side of the two of us. Sigh….
Camping in the 21st century: recharging, and it doesn't include the laptop!

Mastodon skeleton at Le Brea Tar Pits

Le Brea Tar Pits

(Friday) We spent a restless night, aware every time we awoke of the smell of smoke. Several large trucks went by the camper, which when I looked out, were always fire trucks. But the air was much clearer by morning. We could still see several vehicles on the other side of the fence, including a helicopter on the ground, and lots of smoke was rising but we could no longer see the leaping flames. The helicopters in the air started up again about 7:30 and were low and incessant so we were happy we had already gotten up when they started.  As we drove to John and Barbara Rogers’ in Claremont we heard coverage on NPR national news of what we learned was a 200 acre wild fire that was 30% contained. Apparently that 30% included the area where we were camped. We got to Claremont in about 45 minutes and the GPS took us to their old house, which is empty and being rewired and insulated. Luckily as we drove through the gate we asked a man (Paul) where we would find the Rogers and he took us to their two bedroom apartment in a new building that has a few independent living apartments upstairs and assisted living downstairs. After seeing their building they took us all around Pilgrim Manor, showing us all this little community has to offer. It was started 75 years ago as a place for Congregational Missionaries to retire and live out their lives. It has expanded to include anyone who has worked for at least 15 years in a church related capacity and has become more ecumenical as well; they have a lesbian Tibetan Buddhist couple living across from them. It is a really interesting place and they have a museum made up of items donated by the residents that come from all over the world. There is a big Pilgrim Festival the second weekend in November that includes interpretive skits, everyone in costumes, and items for sale made by the residents. With that and other sales through the year they raise over $200,000 annually which is used to help residents whose money has run out. We ended out walking tour at the dining hall where John and Barbara treated us to lunch, seated with old friends from Michigan, Ann Marie and Don Coleman and John and Shirley Washington. It was so nice to catch up on what had brought them to California and all the years between. After lunch John, Marv and I walked through the campus of Pomona University and into the charming village of Claremont, including the Old Town and the New Town.  When we returned their Seattle friends who were visiting for a night, Jim and Carolyn, had arrived so we visited for a while and then all went out for dinner at “Walter’s”, a world foods restaurant owned by an Afghan. Four of us had pasta, Jim had crab tacos and Carolyn had a sampler plate and all was delicious. We gathered up our things at their apartment and left after making plans for Saturday. It was a quick and easy drive back, but first we went through our first-ever Sobriety Checkpoint.  They can’t do those in Michigan! The campground had many more campers and many had lined up right next to us on the “lake”. So much for our private area. The smoke was pretty heavy again this evening but we couldn’t see any fire fighting vehicles as we drove to our site to get ready for tomorrow.
That's how close the fire was!

Peggy & Marv with Shirley and John Washington
(Saturday) This was a perfectly wonderful day that couldn’t have been any better. Once again the smoke had dissipated overnight and there was hardly any smell in the morning. There were still at least four fire fighting vehicles parked and one driving slowly back and forth along the edge of the park, spraying what we assumed was some sort of fire retardant onto the ground behind the truck. We made good time back to the Rogers, taking with us leftover food for them to use and a load of laundry so we could leave towels and some clothes clean in the camper. We started the laundry and then John drove us all to the station where we took the train into Union Station in downtown LA, which took about an hour. We walked to Olvera Street, where Los Angeles began as a Spanish city in 1789. After walking through the Mexican market area we continued up to China Town where we went to the Imperial City to share giant platters of food with egg drop soup and hot tea, all for $4.95 per person!! That’s got to be one of the best deals in Los Angeles. Right across the street the gas was $5.19 a gallon. We walked through China Town and crossed Route 66 before climbing the hill up to the new, very modern Cathedral with its beautiful computer generated tapestries depicting saints. After spending time there we walked to Grant Street and the heart of the Performing Arts District and the Municipal Buildings like City Hall, the Supreme Court, etc. An usher outside the Disney Music Center told us to go up the outside stairs to the gardens and then to continue up some more stairs to the outside catwalk that gives one a great view out over the city. The Rogers chose not to do the extra stairs but Marv and I went up and enjoyed the view and took some pictures before going back down and into the lobby area where we could hear the end of the Philharmonic Symphony concert taking place inside. Barbara thought we could catch a bus across Grant Street back to Union Street. But then we found out the bus didn’t run on Saturdays. We started walking back and cut through the new Grant Street Park with its interactive fountain full of kids cooling off in the 82° sunshine and the grassy areas full of families and booths. On the other side we found a subway line that took us right to Union Station. Everyone got a drink from the Starbucks there and then caught the 4:00 train back to Claremont. We were all pretty tired by then and cold beers tasted great along with lots of cheese and crackers, pickles and guacamole for a light supper. The clothes dried as we ate and exchanged travel suggestions from us for them when they are in Brevort, MI with their family members this summer and from them for our time in the northwest when we come back in May. Around 8:30 we bid these dear friends good-bye and went back to the no longer smoky campground for showers and to begin packing to close up the camper for two months. 
Still there...
Covering the bases: China Town Gates, Caesar Chavez BLVD, & Route 66 sign

Tapestries in the Cathedral

Barbara, Marv, & Peggy at the Living Waters Fountain at Cathedral 

Getting on the MetroLink

Sunset from the Rogers' balcony

Peggy, John, Barbara, & Marv