Circling Lake Superior--Final Entry

Travelers in 1973

Travelers in 2012

Saturday, Sept. 15: We got home without incident and jumped right back into our routines of laundry, lawn care, gardening, socializing, etc. Sadly, MSU was soundly beaten, 20-3, by Notre Dame in a night game at Spartan Stadium. We had a nice harvest waiting for us of 1 pound of green beans, 1¼ of cucumbers, ½ pound of red bell peppers, 1 pound of broccoli, and 4 kinds of tomatoes. We had driven 2072 miles and the new Ford 150 truck with Ecoboost got over 16.3mpg, pulling the trailer and all our gear, with two kayaks strapped on top. I rode my bike for 2 hours & 44 minutes or around 30 miles. It’s hard to know how far we hiked, since it was a combination of kilometers and miles but we lost a little bit of weight so it was enough to offset our nightly Happy Hours, anyway. All in all, it was another very successful trip! 

Circling Lake Superior--Entry 6

Wed. Sept. 12-Sept. 14: Because we have spent so much time camping in the Upper Peninsula, and because the Macks have a cottage in Naubinway, where they spend their summers, we didn't feel we needed to continue the entire Lake Superior shoreline in Michigan. We hoped to get into the Porcupine Mountains but regretfully decided there wouldn't be time to go as far as the modern campground on the far side. So instead we opted for Baraga State Park, cutting across below the Keweenaw Peninsula and coming back to Lake Superior for our last stop. It was cloudy and in the fifties most of the drive. We stopped at the excellent Great Lakes Visitors Center and enjoyed their movies, displays, and third story, “360° view” catwalk. It is a fabulous facility and we were very sorry we couldn't spend more time there. The only other stop we made was for lunch in Ashland, WI. A very light rain started sometime after lunch and continued off and on the rest of the afternoon. But it wasn't foggy so we could enjoy the vistas as we drove through the hilly terrain of the western end of the Upper Peninsula. We were surprised to see how far the fall colors have come out in the Iron Mountain vicinity. Sadly, the photos I took with my camera really didn't do them justice. We came north to Silver City and went through Ontonagon so we could get back to the Lake Superior shoreline before we cut across to Baraga. Marv & I went on to the State Park while Ross & Pat stopped for gas. The campground is across the highway from the shore line so there are views of the lake but noise from traffic. But they also have free WIFI, which we haven’t found at a Michigan State Park before. We were told that we could easily get two sites for two nights as long as we left on Friday. This weekend is their big “Fall Fest” where campers will decorate their sites, kids can go trick-or-treating, and there will be other fun activities, so most of the campground is reserved ahead. We called Ross & Pat to tell them where we were setting up and Pat told us that they had to have a part on their truck fixed so they would follow us when they could. They pulled up soon after that to say that it couldn’t be fixed in Baraga. So we decided to stay only one night here and then go on to Marquette tomorrow to see if it can be fixed there. We all had leftover ribs in our camper then Ross & I worked on the Internet while Marv went and got a few groceries before we retired to our own campers for the rest of the night.

Ross & Pat had an 11:00 appointment for their truck in Marquette so they got going earlier than we did. We broke camp and followed at our leisure and managed to pull into town and call them when they were right around the corner from us. We met for a quick lunch and decided to take our bikes to Presque Isle, a park on an island right by the downtown area that now accessible by a very short bridge.  I thought I had read it was 7 miles around it but it’s only a bit over 2 miles. We wanted to ride more so Ross, Marv & I continued on the bike path that leads to the island until we came to a big dome. We went in and found that it is the “Superior Dome”, home to Northern Michigan University’s football program. We looked around awhile and then returned to the trucks, having ridden about 4 miles and 44 minutes. It was time to go on to a township park Macks knew of just west of Munising. It’s right on the Lake Superior shore, across from Grand Island, with full hook-ups and free WIFI (which we couldn’t access at our campsites, unfortunately). We got set-up quickly and then Ross, Marv & I took our kayaks out on the strait, which is shallow and sandy out quite a ways and then abruptly drops off. It was pretty windy but as long as we didn’t venture out too far it was fun to finally have the kayaks out on Lake Superior. The beach and water were very tempting but since it was only in the mid-sixties we didn’t try swimming. When we came in we took a salad over to Macks’ trailer and played Rummikub before dinner. After eating Manwiches we played Quiddler. Thanks for both games to Cindy Chalou, who gave them to me for my birthday!  We took a short break for Marv to get some great pix of the spectacular sunset, then finished the game and retired to our respective campers.

Biking on Presque Isle

 

Superior Dome, Home of NMU football

Wood frame dome inside

Our last night in the camper only got into the high 40s. We had hoped to take another paddle on the Lake in the morning, but the winds were coming fiercely out of the north and the white caps came all the way to the shore. So Ross helped Marv put the kayaks back on top of the truck before he & Pat left, hoping to visit a friend in Munising. Pete had gone to Wisconsin, though, so they headed back to their cottage. Marv & I took time to empty the refrigerator into a cooler and clean it out, clean the bathroom completely, and do all the dishes—all jobs we won’t have to do when we get home. J We still left the campground by about 10:00 and went to Munising to do some of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore sites. All day the sun went in and out of the clouds, which would occasionally let loose with a quick shower, while the temperatures only got into the low sixties. We hiked into Munising Falls and reminisced about being here for our honeymoon 39 years ago and being able to walk on a path behind the falls. Since then a large chunk of the falls edge fell in, changing the look of the waterfall and endangering visitors. Now wooden fences keep visitors safely back from the eroding rocks. Next we drove to Miner’s Castle to revisit the rocky outcropping above the “painted” cliffs. Again, we marveled at how much can change in just our lifetimes. When we visited on our honeymoon one could venture right out onto the double spires. Marv went out for pictures and I feared we’d have a very short marriage that would end tragically. On April 13, 2006 the top of the back spire fell into the lake and now visitors can only see the castle from safe viewing platforms. What a difference! Miner’s Beach came next, where the wind was pounding big waves onto the lovely, wide, sand beach. Finally, we drove back to hike the 1.2 mile round trip trail to see Miner’s Falls. We also ate our picnic lunch there on a sunny picnic table. From Pictured Rocks area we drove down M28 (where a tailwind and flat road helped us get 20 mpg) to M117 and back to Ross & Pat’s cottage in Naubinway. Hamburgers for dinner and the rubber match of “Hand and Foot” (Marv & Pat eked out a win) signaled the end of our Lake Superior Circle Trip. The Macks will stay “up north” for two more weeks while we will return to East Lansing right after breakfast to arrive in time to attend the MSU/Notre Dame football game Saturday night.

Munising Falls in 2012

Munising Falls in 1973

Munising Falls in 2012

Miner's Castle in 2012

Miner's Castle in 1973

 

Miner's Falls in 2012

Miner's Falls in 1973

 

Circling Lake Superior--Entry 5

Mon. Sept. 10-Sept. 12: It got down to a chilly 43° during the night but we had borrowed Ross & Pat’s electric heater (we hadn’t packed ours) to help out our furnace and were fine all night. We did our best to get on the road by 9:00 and did pretty well. We drove down the North Shore road to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park and spent a couple of hours doing a guided tour of the Lighthouse, Keeper’s House, Fog Horn Building and other sites. There were some Costumed Interpreters onsite to explain their areas. We stayed to watch a well done 22 minute movie about building the Lighthouse after the disastrous storms of November 1905 sank 30 large ships on Lake Superior, including three on the cliffs around Split Rock. We bought sandwiches to eat outside the Visitors Center before continuing on to the Duluth area. It was a sunny 84° by then, 41 degrees warmer than when we got up this morning! Knowing we would return on Tuesday we went on to Superior, Wis. to see the last Whaleback or Pig Boat that is displayed there. Sadly, we couldn’t tour the boat on the Monday we were there, which was a great disappointment to Ross, especially who had expressed that as the one thing he wanted to do on our trip. We got information on State Parks & camping in the area and went to Pattison State Park, where they have two large waterfalls, to set-up camp. We made corn on the cob, salad, & spaghetti squash with tomato/artichoke heart sauce for Meatless Monday. Ross & Pat were tired and went to their trailer for the night but Marv & I hopped on our bikes to ride around the campground a bit before we went to our trailer to read, write & do the dishes. 

Don't know why these are sideways--they weren't when I added them!

Split Rock Lighthouse in 1973 before renovation

Split Rock Lighthouse Station in 1930s(?)

The warm weather continued and the temperature only got into the low 60s overnight despite clear skies and a steady wind. After scrambled eggs with cheese we put the three bikes into Ross & Pat’s truck and set off with Jake, The Dog for Duluth. We parked the truck near the Aquarium just over the Raising Bridge over the canal into the harbor. Ross, Marv & I set off to ride the Lakeside Trail through and beyond downtown while Pat & Jake walked and explored. Duluth has worked hard to make the harbor & lakeside area welcoming and pleasant. There is a boardwalk for a mile or so right on the water and a bike path runs next to it. Beyond the boardwalk there are pocket parks, a Rose Garden, Leif Erickson Park, a reconstructed Viking boat, and lots of green space and lake overlooks. It was a perfect day to ride and we went until the bike path became a sidewalk right next to Hwy. 61, heading up the North Shore. We returned to the historic Fitger Brewery building, where Pat met us (by truck) and we had a great lunch in their Brew Pub, trying 4 of their house beers. After eating that much, the 3 bikers opted to bike back to where we began. As we left we saw a freighter heading for the harbor so we rode past the canal as far around the harbor as we could go and got a picture of it heading into the canal, and then returned to Canal Park to wave at the crew members of the Algona Quebequa as she passed through the canal and turned into the harbor, which was now spotted with white caps. The temperature dropped a bit from the high seventies and rain was threatening as we loaded the bikes and headed back to Pattison Park. But all we saw was a few drops of rain on the windshield before it blew over, the sun came back out and the temperature returned to the high seventies. We drove across the bridge at the park and walked around at Upper Manitou Falls. Then we drove the short way to walk to the Lower Manitou Falls, where there is a plaque recognizing the CCC Camp that was there from 1935-42 and whose men made many of the improvements at the Park and Falls. We relaxed and read until we ate the beef roast, potatoes, carrots, & onions that Pat had cooked all day in the Crock Pot. We also played two games of the card game “Golf”, the whole time remarking on how warm it was. Even after the sun set it was still in the lower 70s! After getting some of the clean-up done for an early departure tomorrow, hot showers felt great!

Circling Lake Superior--Entry 4

Sat. Sept. 8-Sept. 10: We managed to get up, break camp, and leave by 9:00 without eating breakfast at the campsites. We wanted to go to Hoiko Finnish Restaurant in Thunder Bay for their highly recommended breakfast. It took a little longer to get to Thunder Bay than we expected but we had no trouble driving downtown to the Scandinavian part of town and finding the restaurant on Bay Street in the basement of the Finnish Temple. The old guys on the benches outside were speaking Finnish, so we knew we had the right place. Begun in the early nineteen hundreds as a place for the men who worked in the area to come for a good meal at a low price, it has persisted to this day and at 10:00 there was a waiting line for tables. We all had the “Big 2”, their Sat. morning special of coffee, 2 eggs, 2 sausages, 2 pieces of bacon, and 2 Finnish pancakes (like large crepes). Stuffed full, we felt we wouldn’t need to eat again until an early dinner. Ross wanted to drive the length of the harbor front, which we did, but it was hard to see much of the ship traffic he was hoping to see. From there we drove to Fort William Historical Park. The old Headquarters for the North West Fur Company has been reconstructed near their original site. We took a shuttle with one other visitor from the Visitors Center down to the outskirts of the Fort, where our guide, Anton, told us we would wait a few minutes to see if anyone else would be joining us, but said we could chat with the Ojibwa woman in her encampment while we waited. Everyone from this point is a Character Interpreter who, without fail, stayed in character for the time period of the height of the Fur Company’s trade in 1815. We were told that the Big Rendezvous had taken place for nearly a month in mid-summer and now those who remained are preparing for autumn and winter. Anton showed us around the fort buildings, including the room full of beautiful furs waiting to be packed and taken to Montreal. There must have been thousands of dollars of pelts in there still but he assured us it was a fraction of what is processed during the Rendezvous. We toured the Director’s summer & winter quarters and the massive main dining hall, which was only for the Director, the Bourgeois Share Holders, the agents and the interpreters. As a canoe builder, Anton and the other tradesmen would not be allowed to eat in there. They ate in a separate building and had their workshops and quarters behind the dining hall. The Voyageurs and Ojibwa wouldn’t even be inside the fort except for the processing and trading of furs and goods. Anton left us after an hour and a half but encouraged us to walk around the area and visit with other tradesmen. We spent time with the Tinsmith and the Gunsmith. They are truly craftsmen and their work showed their skill. It was a fascinating two or three hours spent there and we thoroughly enjoyed the experience and the attention to detail that has been given to the reconstruction. We regretfully left and headed out to see Kakabeka Falls, about 20KM away but as we drove, the threatening skies finally began to drizzle. We didn’t stay long and were surprised to note how late it was getting. We made our way down to cross the border back into the USA near Grand Portage, MN, and went through customs without a hitch and picked up an hour as we entered Central Daylight Savings Time. Our truck was very low on gas but we were happy to find it for $3.92 in Grand Portage. We were sorry not to be able to spend time at the Grand Portage National Monument, but knew it would be very similar to what we had just seen at Fort William, and not on such a grand scale so it wasn’t too bad. However, it was getting dark and our “early dinner” was becoming a thing of the past. We made our way to Grand Marais and The Gunflint Trail, where my family camped every summer when I was a kid on Devil’s Track Lake. The Trail is now paved all the way to the end, running between the two large Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Areas and dead-ending just short of the border with Canada. After buying groceries we got to the Tourist Information place just as it was closing and got a phone number for the Golden Eagle Lodge. Marv had found it on the Internet and thought it would be a good place to camp since the National Forest Campgrounds on the Trail are all primitive with no electricity or showers. I called and was relieved to find out they had room for us and we should come on out. Ross checked out a kayaking outfitter to see about a carrier but nothing would fit on the truck so they reconciled themselves to traveling with the kayaks inside the camper for the rest of the trip. As we prepared to leave Grand Marais there was a rainbow, which we took to be a good sign. And it turned out that we really landed in the butter with The Golden Eagle Lodge. There are only 9 campsites but they are large, private and have electricity and water. This and a small National Forest campground are the only things on the long, narrow Flour Lake. There are 14 cabins available to rent and a tiny “Lodge” that was built 60 years ago but in it we can have free WIFI and coffee. This was the first chance we had to check in and blog about the trip and since we had some confusion about whether there might be a problem at Sarah’s house (there wasn’t) we were happy to get that straightened away. We also got a hold of Ken and Jen to find that their move had gone very well and that MSU was winning its football game.  Pat made spaghetti that we ate at about 8:30 our-bodies’-time and then we fell, exhausted, into bed.

Despite the long exhausting day before, our bodies hadn’t gotten word of the time change and we were awake at 6:45. After French Toast we took computers down to the Lodge and got caught up on the world outside and posted the first 3 entries on The Savage Traveler. Ross & Pat wandered down to do the same thing. Marv & I took the trail next to the lake and along the cabins until we were afraid we were headed all the way around the lake and headed back the way we had come. We came across a berry-filled pile that was obviously bear scat, right in the middle of the trail—clear indication of the resident bear of which we had been warned. While we walked Ross biked along the old logging trail. We ate an early, quick lunch and then the three of us went to the far west end of the lake on our kayaks, past the National Forest Campground. We shared the large lake with only one small boat with a silent electric motor and three loons. A bald eagle was wheeling above us and the beauty was stunning. After an hour and a half we returned to the boat ramp and rested a bit while we enjoyed a cold beer in the sunshine. Then Marv & I paddled east for awhile on the lake. One boat from the Lodge headed to the west end of the lake and then it was just the two of us and a loon. The sun was shining brightly in the cloudless sky and we kept in mind the stiff breeze to our backs so were careful not to go too far, knowing we’d have to head into the wind to return. Back at the camp I showered and washed my hair then the four of us drove to the Trail Center’s Black Bear Bar & Grill for their full rack of ribs special. There were 7 Corvettes in the parking and the 7 drivers were gathered around a large table in the Grill. All the tables were full but we were encouraged to enjoy the free samples in the store just outside the grill. They make their own “Camp Chow” freeze dried foods and have a wall full of items. Sarah was cooking up their grilled cheese & tomato basil soup, bread pudding with pumpkin syrup, and macaroni & cheese. All were delicious. Then we were called in to be seated. We all got the rib special with wild rice pilaf and salad. Ross was the only one who cleaned his plate—the rest of us took half home for another time. We left just before sunset and drove part of the Old Gunflint Trail and another side road searching for moose but sadly didn’t find any. It was dark when we returned and since we’ve decided to stay on Michigan Time we went to bed.

Watching a Mama Loon feed & train her youngster

Circling Lake Superior--Entry 3

Thur. Sept. 6-Sept. 8: The clear sky persisted through the night and it got down to a chilly 47° but we stayed cozy. As we closed up camp the day warmed quickly into the low 60s and for the rest of the day it was high 60s (when the clouds prevailed) or low 70s (when the sun won out). We drove northwest through spectacular scenery of rock cliffs, boreal forests, Lake Superior vistas and little sign of civilization. We ate lunch at Nipigon, the farthest north point of the lake. Ross & Pat were having increasing problems with their kayak holder on the back of the fifth wheel, which was sagging backwards and compromising the support welded onto the frame. We stopped twice for them to secure the ropes he added but it was clear he’ll have to do something else for the rest of the trip. West of Nipigon we headed north to Ouimet Canyon. Marv & I visited it in 1974, when there was no development whatsoever. Now it is a Provincial Park, but there is no camping there. Signs cautioned us to leave trailers & RVs in a parking area at the bottom of a steep, winding road, so we unhooked our trailer and Ross & Pat got in our backseat, leaving their whole rig. We proceeded up to another parking area with only one car in it. We walked a 1KM trail that took us to two viewing “pods” overlooking the canyon with interpretive signs. The 100M canyon was as impressive as we remembered and well worth the side trip. The climate at the bottom of the canyon gorge is subarctic and includes rare plants not found anywhere else in Ontario. The signs compare the change as the equivalent of traveling 1000KM north! When we had had our fill we drove on to the turn to Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. It is a 37KM drive down a peninsula to the park. Like the other parks, the registration is now self-serve and the Visitors Center is only open on weekends. But we got sites next to each other right on Lake Marie-Louise. As we set-up a big wind arose and it spit a bit of rain. We decided to eat inside our camper and wondered if Marv would be able to grill the pork chops. But the squall soon ended and we had a good dinner of pork chops, sweet potato “fries”, marinated salad, and baked beans. Ross was practically falling asleep and excused himself right after eating. Pat headed back to their camper and Marv and I took a short bike ride around the campground, marveling at the Pileated Woodpecker that flew over our heads. We returned in time to take our chairs down the steps of our campsite to the shoreline to watch the sunset. The Sleeping Giant reclines right across the lake from us and the sunset just to the right of his head. As the sun sank into the tree line we could hear the plaintive call of loons. What a spectacular way to end our day!

It didn’t get as cold overnight as Wednesday night had and we woke to intermittent sun and a stiff breeze. We had pancakes and did the dishes before we met up with Ross & Pat to explore the park some more in our truck.  As we drove past the headquarters we realized it was open and stopped by for more information. The ranger encouraged us to take some of the hiking trails we had considered so we drove on to the parking lot for Kabuyen Trail from which several other trails depart. We took the 2.4KM “Sea Lion” trail out to the edge of the water to see the diabase dyke formation that, until its head broke off prior to 1900, looked like a lion (not the seal-type) sitting on its haunches. It is still easy to imagine the resemblance. The trail involved a bit of rock scrambling but we all made it. We were considering another hike from the same parking lot but decided to first drive down to the tiny Silver Islet community at the tip of the peninsula to see if we could find some ice cream at the general store. What we found instead is a summer community of “camps” that prides itself on being “off the grid”. Most of the dwellings include small wind turbines and/or solar panels. Others appear to do without electricity at all. The General Store (established in 1851) had a sign that said it was open from 1:00-5:00 and it was only about 11:30. But we saw some people walk in and on closer inspection saw that if you needed supplies you should ring the doorbell. Little old Mr. Saxeberg was helping some people get some things and told us we were welcome to look around. The museum-like store is like stepping back 150 years and he and Mrs. Saxeberg, who was at the back making pies, apologized “for the mess”. After Mrs. Saxeberg put the finishing touches on a blueberry pie she came out and wanted to “show us some things”. We found out they bought the place 20 years ago when it was all boarded up but most of the artifacts were in the attic of the large building. The front is the General Store and in back they run a small lunch counter where you can get the soup of the day and a biscuit for $5.25 and a HUGE piece of pie for $5.25+$1.00 for a scoop of ice cream on it. She also told us more about the silver mine that was on the 80 ft. diameter island just across the inlet. In the approx. 40 years it was active in the late 1800s they removed $3,000,000 worth of silver before the lake eventually won out and shut them down. Many of the dwellings (called camps) in town are converted miners’ cabins and we saw one that traced its residents back 7 generations of the same family! The summer population is between 400 & 500 people and in winter about 4 or 5. The Saxebergs retreat to their winter home in nearby Thunder Bay. Armed with a map and some directions from Mr. Saxeberg we looped around the bottom of the peninsula and went to the 1.4KM “Cemetary Trail”. Ross, Marv & I hiked through the forest to about a dozen old gravesites which were each surrounded by hand crafted picket fences and had wooden markers on which writing was rarely visible anymore. Most of the fencing was falling down and the sites were full of trees and brush. We did see two carved head stones, one from 1872 & one from 1884. The cemetery was used from 1870-1942 but there is little record evident of the 60 or so men, women & children buried there. We returned to the car and by then it was 1:00 so we returned to the General Store for homemade Chicken Noodle Soup & a biscuit followed by Blueberry Pie. Surprisingly, as we ate the 5 or so tables all filled and the Saxebergs were really hopping to keep up with locals and tourists alike. The Chicken Noodle we had ran out and they switched to Beef Barley and the Missus had her husband from front peeling potatoes and carrots and then in back chopping them up. We regretfully left the charming scene and returned to camp. Ross & Marv rode their bikes up to register and found out that the sites we were on were “Premium Electric” so they cost more. But with our view of the lake and the convenient steps down to the shore we didn’t begrudge them the extra. The Macks hung out at their trailer while Marv & I took the kayaks out on the choppy lake. As we paddled around the point to our left we found that the wind was stronger out there and the lake had white caps. We decided that it was a bit treacherous and we were getting occasional splashes so we head back to camp. The wind picked up behind us as we paddled and it was a bit tricky getting back to shore. As I struggled out of my kayak some big waves, almost like a boat wake, swept in and knocked me right into the water. Marv was still seated in his kayak so he just got a little wet from the waves going over the side but I was soaked. Luckily, we were right at the campsite and the water wasn’t too shockingly cold so we just hung my clothes out in the wind to dry. The temperature never got above the low 60s all day and the wind and the scuttling clouds were constant so a pair of jeans and a sweatshirt felt cozy. We took our Dominoes over to teach Pat & Ross how to play Mexican Train. Afterwards we cooked brats over a campfire but we ate indoors as the wind continued and the temperatures dropped as the sun sank lower and lower. Ross, Marv & I ate S’mores beside the fire while Pat ate hers inside. Then we all enjoyed the sunset and got things put away for an early departure tomorrow. Ross & Pat managed to get their kayaks inside their fifth wheel so they don’t have to worry about the dangling carrier until we can get to Thunder Bay tomorrow to see what their options may be. 

                                                                 Sea Lion Today

                                                                 Sea Lion in 1920