...Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River....

Wed. Oct. 27: We heard rain coming and going all night but the temperature remained in the low 60s. We ate a quick breakfast and closed up the camper during a lull in the light rain. Just as we finished it really poured so we felt quite grateful to have avoided that! Back on the parkway it rained fitfully but most of the time we didn’t have much trouble with visibility. The overlooks were not as spectacular as we had anticipated until we came to ….There we were afforded a breathtaking view of the far below valley and the mountains beyond to the east. It felt like we were on top of the world. From then on we were treated to many other nice overlooks. We were now following what they call the Crest of the Blue Ridge and there were places where the land fell abruptly on both sides of the road. We left the Parkway at Roanoke to get lunch. We found the SoRo (South Roanoke?) Chill and Grill and had a nice lunch. But my wrap had avocado with some bad spots in it which tainted the taste of one half. When the waitress asked how our wraps were I showed her the black avocado. After talking to the kitchen she offered me a free dessert. So we all shared a big piece of peanut butter cheesecake. Yum! We continued north on the Parkway and stopped at a Visitors Center with a 20 foot topographical map of the Parkway, which helped orient us all. We spent some time looking at their displays and talking to a Park Ranger. This area used to be a bigger display of old buildings called Park Explore but none of it seems to be opened anymore. An interesting thing was that a production company out of Atlanta was there making a nonfiction movie about settler’s daughters who had been kidnapped by Cherokees and we saw some of the actors in make-up. Although the rain had mostly stopped and we had enjoyed some mostly sunny periods while we were in the Center there was a terrific downpour. When we came out the sun was again shining. We left the camper and truck at one of the overlooks near the Visitors Center and we all took the steep and winding drive up Roanoke Mountain in Jan and Lou’s van. It had some nice vistas but not any nicer than what we had seen already. Back on the Parkway we drove up and down between 1000 and 3000 feet with the truck averaging about 14 miles per gallon, in stark contrast to the 17 miles per gallon we had until we got to the mountains. We stopped at many overlooks and took a short hike to see the Roanoke River Gorge. At one point Jan and Lou just missed hitting a deer. Later on we had a buck run across in front of us, but it wasn’t as close as theirs. We pulled over at one overlook where we could also walk on the Appalachian Trail, which was now crossing back and forth over the Parkway in places. As we returned to the truck we saw a gorgeous rainbow over the mountain in front of us. For the next 5 miles or so we were driving right towards that rainbow. We set-up for the night when we got to “Peaks of Otter” campground around 6:00. As we pulled in an 8 point buck calmly watched us from next to the road before turning and walking away. We were all alone until one other camper joined us. The campgrounds are nearly shut down at this time of year and we haven’t been able to get water from the spigots. But the bathrooms with cold running water are still open. We started a fire and were content to snack on crackers and cheese and fruit, since we had had large sandwiches at lunch. The sky cleared off and filled with stars and we were ready for bedtime about 10:00. It had been another richly satisfying day on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Foggy Mountain Breakdown...

Tue. Oct. 26: We awoke to the sunrise through our bedside window where we had watched the nearly full moon for the last two nights. It was 61° and windy with some sun and some clouds. We broke camp and drove back to the State Park main entrance where we left our camper and truck and rode with Jan and Lou to explore that area a bit. We enjoyed seeing the Glade Creek Grist Mill which was built from parts of three other mills in 1976 and put near the site of the original mill. We drove up to see Boley Lake, where they have canoes, kayaks and peddle boats to rent during the summer and early fall. Then we continued up the hill a bit further and took the short hike to see Island in the Sky. This rocky knob has a shelter built by the CCC and several side paths that lead to spectacular rock overlooks. We had fun climbing around on there for a while and then returned to our truck and took Highway 41 to I-77, which is mostly a toll road in West Virginia. Highway 41 was about 30 miles of rugged up and down beauty. After climbing to about 2000 feet we descended to follow a creek for a while and then cross over and follow the New River. With the autumn colors and falling leaves it was really lovely. But I-77 seemed a good choice for crossing the Appalachian Mountains. We stopped at a rest area just over the Virginia boarder to have a picnic and make reservations for camping near Washington, DC on Friday and Saturday nights. As we traveled on to the 3000 feet elevation mark, we could see wisps of fog rising in patches and reminding us why they are called the Smoky Mountains in this area. Just as we got to Fancy Gap and entered onto the Blue Ridge Parkway the fog thickened and we were totally socked in, with visibilities of a few hundred feet. There was no chance of enjoying the famous overlooks and vistas as we crept along. We pulled over at the first feature, Puckett Cabin, and talked over our options. We decided there was nothing to do but continue on and, luckily, the fog soon lifted and we were better able to enjoy the drive. Our GPS showed clearly how the Parkway truly follows right along the edge of the towering ridge, affording wonderful vistas of the valleys and mountains beyond. After picking up some groceries and buying gas at Meadows of Dan, we parked at Mabry Mill and walked around the historic area with its artifacts of 19^th century Appalachian life. The Mill itself is the most photographed feature on the Parkway. We approached our first campground at about 5:00 and agreed we would spend the night there at Rocky Knob. Rain was beginning to fall off and on again and by the time we had registered and set-up, it was getting pretty dark. We had leftover chili wraps in Jan and Lou’s van and then came to our camper to play dominoes. We quit about 10:30 and right after they left, the rain which had started and stopped many times through the evening, began to really pour down as thunder rumbled outside. We are so grateful to have our cozy camper to sleep in on this stormy evening!

Pictures will follow later when we have more time.

Almost heaven, West Virginia...

Mon. Oct. 25: The temperature didn’t drop much more during the night. But we awoke to a gentle on-&-off again rain. After lingering over oatmeal and coffee we decided to hike the Mann’s Creek Gorge Trail, which began right at the campground. Foolishly, we didn’t bring our map or even water as we set off on a trail that we hadn’t really looked at for length or anything else. We hiked down to the creek and followed it for a while past some gentle falls area. The very light rain stopped for good and we began to climb. Up and up we went, stopping frequently to enjoy the spectacular views and colors of the gorge. The sun popped in and out and there was a gentle breeze. We reached what seemed to be a crest on the climb but had no way of knowing if we were continuing without stop, if we would circle back, or if we would come to a paved road or something. Since we had been hiking for about an hour and a half and the trail seemed to be descending, we decided to retrace our steps and return to the campground. In all we hiked for about two and a half hours. When we got back we looked at the map and saw that we would have come to a paved road and had a long walk back on it so what we did worked just as well for us. We probably had hiked about 4 miles. After a well earned, late lunch and a bit of a rest we got on our bikes and set off again, this time taking the map! We knew where we were going this time but couldn’t tell the topography from the map. After flying down a steep hill on a paved service road we had a long, slow climb up a hill that none of us managed to pedal entirely. Marv made it the farthest but we all had to walk some of it, pushing our bikes. We proceeded to go up and down several similar hills past the cabin area and through some lovely wooded areas. We saw only two cars most of the way. Along one side of a ridge we were treated to an amazing lookout with a view of the forested gorge and mountains in the distance. This is truly what we had come on the trip to see! We went down one more long hill and took a short hike to a small natural rock arch. Continuing on we had a short sudden hill we had to walk up and came out at the entrance to the main gate of the State Park which leads to a grist mill, swimming pool and other attractions. We knew that what goes down must go up and we were dreading climbing back up where we had come. We spent a long time discussing our options, including having Marv, the strongest biker, ride back to the campground and bring the truck to pick us up. Finally we decided to try the main highway back and just see how far we could make it and how busy it was. We climbed one long moderate hill right at the beginning, rounded a curve and were amazed that it was then nearly two miles of coasting downhill to the turn out for the campground. How could that be?!?! As Jan said, “You just wanted to yell Yahoo all the way down!” We walked the bikes up one last very steep but short hill and we had made it back. We had ridden 5¼ challenging but paved miles and had earned a cold beer to celebrate. After showers combined our veggies for a pork stir fry and rice. We enjoyed another campfire and s’mores and then our beds couldn’t have been more welcome.

Happy Birthday to Craig, Happy Birthday to Craig...

Sun. Oct. 24: Happy Birthday, Craig!! This was a day for mostly driving. We ate a quick bowl of cereal, took down the camper, and got back on the road by 10:00. We drove by Fort Boonesborough but when we saw that it was $8.00 each for admission and knowing that we would feel rushed, we decided to pass on touring it. We took a highway at an angle up to I64 and headed east. About two hours later we were at the Information rest area in West Virginia, where Jan and Lou joined us within half an hour or so. Together we decided to take a Scenic Byway called the Midland Trail out of Charleston into the New River valley area. The color along the way was nice but muted because of the drought here, too. But some of the views were spectacular as we followed the Kanawha River for about an hour before we climbed up to 1900 feet in a short time and then drove through some rolling countryside far above the rivers. It was mostly sunny and low 80s the whole way. We stayed at Babcock State Park, where we could have electricity because Lou and Jan seemed to be having trouble keeping a charge on their battery in the van. It is a nice park with lots of towering oak trees and only two other campsites taken out of 55 or so. We ate their chili and our marinated vegetable and feta salad for dinner, enjoyed a campfire and s’mores and went to bed just before midnight with the temperature in the high 50s.

T'is a gift to be simple, t'is a gift to be free...

Sat. Oct. 23: This morning as we left the campsite after breakfast, a caravan of trucks was pulling in next to us. There was a large “stake” truck that appeared to be filled with fence pieces and other items destined to be another elaborate display on the two empty sites next to ours. Marv took a couple of pictures and then we set off to take a driving trip through the Kentucky Heartland Blue Grass area. This is one of the Scenic Drives featured in our road atlas. We followed a narrow country road northwest from the campsite through some stunning countryside. As we approached Highway 68 and got closer to Lexington, the road got wider and busier. We got on Man O’ War Parkway and met up with Highway 68 going southwest. As the atlas says, “the most prominent feature of this region is its miles of black and white fences, behind which thoroughbred horses graze…” The famous blue grass is decidedly brown right now as they have suffered from drought conditions since July. After passing through the palisades of the Kentucky River we climbed out of the valley to the Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill. Although the colony effectively disbanded in 1910 and its final resident died in 1926, many of the shaker buildings have been restored and are open for tours. We spent a delightful 5 hours or so exploring and savoring the gorgeous weather (temperatures in the seventies and sunny skies) and the peaceful environment of the “heaven on earth” that the Shakers established here. We had a leisurely lunch in the dining hall of the Trustees Office where they are devoted to offering traditional dishes with food grown on the premises or bought locally. Towards the end of our visit Ken called to recount the exciting MSU/Northwestern game which MSU won, bringing their season to 8-0. We regretfully left the village and took a circular route back to the campground. We passed through Harrodsville which was settled in 1775 and is the oldest village in Kentucky, stopped in Richmond to update the blog and wash the truck, and got back to the campsite around 7:00. We had a light supper of soup, tabbouleh, and fresh tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. We walked around the campground again after dark and saw that people are still adding to their displays, although our next door neighbors haven’t begun yet. This place is going to be unbelievable by next weekend, with thousands of dollars in decorations on display. We talked to Jan and Lou and agreed to meet them tomorrow around Huntington, West Virginia, after we have had a chance to see Fort Boonesborough since we’re here.

Kentucky

Fri. Oct. 22: We ate breakfast, packed up the camper and were on the road by 10:00. We were a little surprised to see three campers lined up, ready to check-in, as we were leaving. Having looked more carefully at maps and talked to Lou and Jan, we knew that our original plan of going to Great Smoky Mountains National Park and driving the entirety of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive while camping in Shenandoah National Park and getting to Washington, DC by Oct. 30 for the Jon Stewart “Rally to Restore Sanity” was a bit too ambitious. Instead we drove to Louisville to visit our first and favorite babysitter, Ellen, and her husband Elmer and the new baby, Dario. His two big brothers were at school so we didn’t get to see them. L We said we’d bring lunch but then didn’t come across anything good in half an hour of driving around looking for a Subway. But Ellen told us there was a nice café just down the block from them in German Town so we walked with the baby to it for lunch. It was a beautiful sunny day, about 70° and we sat in a little alcove by ourselves where they could set up his portable rocking cradle to enjoy lunch and good desserts. It was leisurely and pleasant to have a good chance to catch up on their lives since they moved here from Nicaragua about two years ago. Ellen is working for the National Presbyterian office in Mission Trips and Elmer has recently started an interim position as pastor for a Hispanic Presbyterian church in Nashville, 2 ½ hours away. He goes down overnight each weekend and is enjoying being involved leading a church once again. As we left Louisville around 3:00 we decided we should check with the State Parks towards which we were driving to see if we would be able to get it. The first one was full! Yikes!! I then called Fort Boonesborough State Park. They had one site left that would accommodate our camper so I reserved it on the spot. Once again the GPs took us right to it and we checked in. A giant banner proclaiming “Welcome to Halloween Fest” hung from the trees and as we drove through to our campsite it was clear that there was a very serious celebration going on! It turns out that the Halloween Fest lasts for 13 days. The park personnel begin decorating at the end of July and finish up in time for the Fest. But nearly every campsite was also decorated with elaborate graveyards, blow-up characters, and pumpkins galore. One site had a complete maze; another had hundreds of lighted jack-o-lanterns. We were told that there is a minimum one week stay, one can make reservations a year and two weeks ahead of time, and that 80% of the reservations are filled in about 7 ½ hours on the first day. (I’m not sure how we were able to get our two nights but we were glad we did.) Each day of the 13 day Fest has a theme and is filled with activities, mostly aimed at children, of course. But we went for “Pirate Putt-putt Golf” for $4.00 each this evening. It included food and a round of putt-putt on their old cement course which was ornately decorated with lights and skeletons and graveyards around a pirate theme, with piped in “Halloween-y” music. Then we enjoyed a chili dog, Fritos, hot chocolate and a s’more. We were about the only adults there but we had a great time! Not only were the decorations terrific, but we played under a full moon that was just rising, which made it stunning! We rode our bikes back to the campsite taking in all the wonderful decorations, made even more exciting with literally hundreds of lights shining in the darkness. It was magical!!

On the Road Again...

Wed. and Thu., Oct. 20 & 21: Despite having to load the fridge and the freezer, and fold up the camper, we got on the road to Indianapolis by 8:00. We had no problems on the drive down and the GPS took us right to the county campground Marv had found on the internet. It turned out to be nearly deserted, full hook-ups for $20.00 a night, and right on the White River. We were surrounded by old growth trees and our site was on the river bank. Lovely! After dropping the camper and eating a quick lunch, the GPS took us 19 miles to Sarah and Craig’s new house in Carmel. We arrived to find that Sarah’s friend, Marie, was there with her two daughters. She had brought lunch and helped Sarah begin setting up the kitchen. Sarah and Craig have nearly everything moved at least into the garage. There are still a few things in their storage unit and the swing/climber and wooden patio chairs at the old house. Craig hopes to move them this weekend with the help of a friend whose dad has trucks for his business. We spent the two days helping with some unpacking and settling, with Marv mostly doing projects from Sarah’s list and me playing with the boys so that Sarah could work on the house. Marv ran a water line for the very nice refrigerator that has ice and water on the door but had never been hooked up. He also changed out three light fixtures and went with Sarah to get the freezer contents, some planters and the patio chair cushions from the old house. Craig came home from work both evenings and got right to work, carrying, carrying, and carrying boxes in from the garage. They are exhausting themselves with decisions about where things will go, but I think they’re going to be very happy with the new place. The yard is huge and fenced, which makes Samantha The Dog so happy! The people they bought from left several raised beds of herbs and vegetables including ripe tomatoes and eggplants, celery, many kinds of peppers, basil, radishes, and asparagus, strawberry and raspberry patches! The house is on a cul-de-sac with about 8 houses total and is extremely quiet, particularly after the noise on Keystone. Playing outside with Jordan and Elijah, I met the two girls in the house next door, and the couple who live on the other side. They have 4 grown children and many grandchildren who visit regularly, since all live within 20 minutes, including one or two in the same neighborhood. The Grandma (Margie?) is a pediatric nurse and they said they were very happy to see kids move in next door. I also met Mark and Sarah who live across the street and they have a Jordan, too, who is older than our Jordan but they didn’t say how old. Margie assured me it was a wonderful neighborhood and that Sarah and Craig would love it there. The first night we took everyone out for dinner to celebrate Craig’s birthday and that Craig had passed his first and hardest certification test—the one on Structures. He was very relieved because he knows many people who have to take and retake it to pass, and he passed the first time. We’re very proud of him. The second night Sarah made spaghetti and meatballs with whole wheat pasta. Yummy! We left after dinner and carrying a few more loads while helping get the boys in bed. It’s hard to leave them with so much still to do, but we know that they will make it and in a week or so it will really be feeling like home.