Saturday, July 10, 2010
Alaska Adventures: Day 18--July 6
Monday, July 5, 2010
Alaska Adventures: Day 17--July 5
Mon. July 5: Our last day in Vancouver! So we spent it in the best way possible—we took the ferry to Vancouver Island. We got up early, got on our way and caught the 8:00 ferry to have a good long day of it. On our way through the narrows of the islands we were thrilled to see a pod of orcas swimming along, breaching and diving. (A naturalist on the afternoon told us she only sees them about a quarter of the time!) That helped to make the 1½ hour trip go more quickly. The GPS took us straight to our first destination—Butchart Gardens. In 1888, near his birthplace, Owen Sound, Ontario, the former dry goods merchant, Robert Pim Butchart, began manufacturing Portland cement. By the turn of the century he had become a highly successful pioneer in this burgeoning North American industry. Attracted to the West Coast of Canada by rich limestone deposits vital for cement production, he built a factory at Tod Inlet, on Vancouver Island. There, in 1904, he and his family established their home. When Mr. Butchart exhausted the limestone in the quarry near their house, his enterprising wife, Jennie, conceived an unprecedented plan for refurbishing the bleak pit. From farmland nearby she requisitioned tons of top soil, had it brought to Tod Inlet by horse and cart, and used it to line the floor of the abandoned quarry. Little by little, under Jennie Butchart's supervision, the abandoned quarry blossomed into the spectacular Sunken Garden. Added onto in subsequent years it is now a spectacular area where we happily wandered for 4 hours. We saw about half of the gardens before taking a break to eat our picnic lunch. Then we walked through the other half. Sometime during the afternoon the clouds began to disperse and it became a stunningly sunny afternoon. I can’t decide if it inspires me to go home and do great things in my gardens, or discourages me from trying anything at all! My favorites were probably the massive beds of towering flocks, the Italian garden beds of many colors that reminded me of a patchwork quilt, and the extensive rose garden. And of course, the sunken garden made from the emptied limestone pit was magical!
From there we drove to Victoria. Marv found a parking place right on the harbor, which we walked around first at the dock level and then above, taking pictures of the European-type street crowds with vendors, living statues, a “circus”, and various and sundry characters. We bought ice cream and made our way back to the car. Then we found the house near Beacon Hill that a group of Robertsons rented about 8 years ago and walked through part of the Beacon Hill Park, overlooking the water at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. We made our way back to catch the 5:00 ferry and spent about half the trip out on the deck, enjoying the sunshine. When Ann and I headed to the aft deck to hear a naturalist give a short talk, we were lucky enough to have a gentleman who pointed out a large group of harbor seals sunning themselves on a small spit of land revealed by the low tide around a lighthouse in the water. Several of them were swimming hear the ferry and a tiny one came quite close, watching us float by while she gently beat her back flippers. The naturalist pointed out that we could see Mount Baker and other snow covered peaks of the Cascades in the state of Washington from the middle of the Georgian Bay. Back on the mainland we found a restaurant for a quick dinner before we returned to pack up and ready ourselves to fly home tomorrow.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Alaska Adventures: Day 16--July 4 HAPPY 4TH OF JULY!!
Alaska Adventures: Day 15--July 3
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Alaska Adventures: Day 14--July 2
Alaska Adventures: Day 13--July 1
Thu. July 1: It is 5:30pm and we are sitting in our state room overlooking the two streets of Ketchikan that run parallel to the dock, clinging to the cliff that seems to run the perpendicular street up at a 90° angle. The bald eagles are soaring all through this area, drawn by the salmon fisheries and canneries. We are relaxing, resting and reflecting on our wonderful day in Ketchikan. The ship docked about 9:30 this morning and we were among the first to disembark. It was partly cloudy and in the mid-to low-fifties. We had arrived too late to take the 9:45 Blue Line bus across the street which only comes once an hour so we walked about a mile to the Library and Historical Museum, where they were happy to have us begin exploring with a pass that would allow us to return later. It’s a small museum that is full of historical photographs and artifacts showing the development of Ketchikan since its beginnings in the 1860s. We went out to catch the nearly empty Blue Line bus and settled in for the half hour ride out to Totem Bight State Park. When it pulled up by the ship dock it was already full and some people couldn’t get on, which must have been very disappointing for them but made us glad we had caught it at the museum! Totem Bight State Park was set up by the CCC and WPA to 1)preserve ancient totem poles and 2)have skilled carvers teach young Native Alaskans their dying craft. There is a reproduction of a clan lodge house which was built in the old style and a large collection of reproductions of the old totem poles. We learned the significant designs used and found that the important part of the totem pole was the potlatch held to raise it and show off the wealth and importance of its sponsor. When they fell and decayed it was considered part of returning to the forest, so preserving the pole itself was not considered important or needed. In the 1960s when more effort went into protecting some of the ancient poles it was controversial and had to undergo consideration by the native people before it was deemed to be desirable. We spent two hours at the park and then caught the bus back to the museum, where we completed our “tour”. We hadn’t had lunch, just a piece of fruit and a granola bar, and Ann was feeling pretty crummy so she and Shelby were going to walk back to the ship through downtown with a stop at a drug store to find something to help with her cold. Marv and I proceeded down Stedman Street and up Deermont Street to visit the Cultural Center. It is there that they have the original old totem poles which were copied for the State Park and it gave more of the history of their significance and what life was like in the Haida and Tlingit villages from which they were recovered. From there we found our way down along the creek past the native salmon fish hatchery, the fish ladder below the falls, along Married Man’s Path, through Creek Street (the old red light district), and to a Mexican place that claimed to have the best pizza (?) in town! We’ll never know if it’s true because we just ordered an Alaskan Amber, which they brought with their chips and excellent fresh salsa. We had to be back to the ship at 5:45 so we made our way back as a light drizzle began. It had been a great day for us. The bus, State Park, and both museums had only cost $9.00 a piece and we couldn’t help but compare that to what any of the Princess tours would have cost.
As I wrote the above our phone rang. It was Shelby, asking if we had gotten their message about our 6:15 reservation. As I assured him we had I glanced at the computer clock and saw it was 6:20!! Yikes!!!! We dashed down and joined them for another fantastic dinner at the Santa Fe. This time Marv got the beef fajitas and I got the chicken; both are house specialties. For dessert Marv had vanilla ice cream with caramel sauce and I had Earl Gray tea with assorted tiny cookies. But I didn’t have time to finish because we had to run to catch the third show for the ship’s cast, “Do You Wanna Dance?”. It was another high powered show, this time showcasing the dancers especially. To end our evening we went up to the 14th deck to watch a nice sunset while we had a cup of decaf coffee. We spend all day “at sea” tomorrow so there will be no rush to get up and have breakfast. Finally, we can sleep in!
Alaska Adventures: Day 12--June 30
Wed. June 30: This morning we awoke to steady rain at the dock in Juneau. Our lovely and totally non-typical-for-Alaska weather had come to an end. After an early breakfast up at the Horizon Court we went out to meet our Tour Guide at 7:50am for a hike through the rain forest near Mendenhall Glacier. An old school bus took us to the trail head a few miles from the town. Considering it is the state capital Juneau is a small town, reachable only by plane or boat. Alaskans are constantly voting on moving the capital to the more centrally located Anchorage, but so far it hasn’t happened. We saw many bald eagles along the way, drawn by the salmon that have returned to the bay but not yet started up the rivers to spawn. As the rain continued we suited up in rain ponchos or water proof jackets and pants and began the hike. The knowledgeable guide told us some of the history and much about the characteristics of this glacially carved, lush, rain forest area. The rain came down the entire time and my feet were soon soaked up to my knees. But we were hiking with a family with four kids ranging in age from 4 to 14 who were remarkably good sports about the conditions so one couldn’t dare complain! We hiked four miles and rose 700 feet, over a high ridge overlooking the glacier. It was fascinating to see how the terrain has been affected by the retreating glacier, with major changes as recently as 1965 when the ice was a mile closer than it is now. At one point we saw AJ Falls, which reminded us of our little friend, AJ, back in East Lansing and his Nana and G’pa Jim. One disappointment was that when we reached the Visitor Center put in by the U.S. Forest Service we were sort of rushed from it, its displays, and the path out closer to the Mendenhall Glacier; because they were not included in our tour and we had to get on the bus to return to the ship. Ann tried to find a way to stay, visit the Center and return later to the ship, but it would have been tricky to accomplish and at our expense. We were tired enough and wet enough at that point not to be inclined to work it out. We also chose not to be dropped off in the downtown area to check out the shops and use our freebie coupons in Juneau. Instead we were dropped back at the ship where we parted ways with Ann and Shelby to change into dry clothes and get our lunch. Ann wasn’t feeling too well because she had a head cold. So Marv and I spent most of the rest of the day as a twosome. Afterwards, we went to the Princess Theater to hear Libby Riddles talk about being the first woman to win the Iditarod in 1985 and her life since then. It was interesting and she had a good combination of pictures and video. Back in our cabin I worked on the journal and Marv napped until we went to another presentation by Sandy the Naturalist on the Animals of Coastal Alaska. When we went back to our cabin we decided to do laundry, not realizing how close it was to our dinner reservation at the Pacific Moon. It all worked out okay with Marv running up to get the laundry out of the dryer after appetizers and before soup (I had my fourth chilled soup of the voyage!). He had rock fish with chocolate pie for dessert and I had Beef Wellington with Princess Love Boat (chocolate mousse) and a scoop of mandarin sorbet. We left just in time to catch the new musical show by the Princess cast, where we sat with Ann and Shelb. As they headed straight to their cabin afterwards we wandered the ship a bit, stopping for a while in the Wheelhouse Lounge to listen to the combo and even danced! At the Explorers Lounge there wasn’t anything happening but as we passed a set of doors I happened to see a pod of humpbacks just off the starboard side of the ship. We watched them and others for a while and then decided to see if we could watch some from our cabin. We were delighted to find see many Dall’s porpoises right beside the ship and, further out, a pretty constant parade of whales. Finally they didn’t seem to be appearing anymore, it became too dark to see them very well, and it was 10:15 so we went to bed.
Alaska Adventures: Day 11--June 29
Tue. June 29: We pulled into Taiya inlet early this morning. Marv happened to be up at 4:15 or so to take pictures of the sun rise before we had docked at Skagway (the Tlinket name means ruffled waters). Once the major Klondike gateway, Skagway still boasts many historic Gold Rush buildings. Less evident now is how Dyea, nine miles north by unpaved road, rivaled it as Alaska’s largest town then. We went straight to the Klondike Gold Rush National Park Visitor Center, right in the center of town, to get information on what we wanted to do. We ended up taking a 1.6 mile hike out to Yakutania Point first, which looks down Lyn Canal toward the Chilkat Mountains. We got back to the Visitor Center in time for the 11:00 ranger led historical walk around town, learning about such characters as Soapy Smith and William Moore, who typified the people who made the town, which sustained what was only a two year gold rush. We heard about the “Stampeders” who climbed the shorter deadly Chilkoot Pass, rising 1000 feet in a quarter mile, or taking the equally harrowing White Pass, and carried their required 1 ton year’s supplies into Canada, arriving at Dawson City only to find that all the lands were claimed already and there was nothing to do but return. The ranger did a good job of telling the stories and it was well worth the one hour it took. We grabbed a quick sandwich to share at a bakery and returned to the Visitor Center to watch their informational film on the history of the Klondike Gold Rush. Afterwards we hiked about 3 miles and up 500 feet elevation to Lower Dewey Lake and beyond to the cascades of water which feed the lake. It was a pretty difficult climb made worthwhile by the beauty of the tumbling water. Shelby was more than ready to return to the ship when we reached the bottom again. But Ann and I wanted a few more of our coupon freebies so, with Marv, we made our way back downtown. We also considered a stop at the notorious Red Onion Saloon. But it was totally packed, so instead we dragged ourselves back to the ship. A soak in the hot tub helped our aching legs and put us in good shape for our 6:10 reservation at the Savoy, an Italian Restaurant. The four of us met our tour director, Connie; Ann, the retired elementary principal; and Lynn, who celebrated her 85th birthday with us last week. We had a delightful two hour dinner with them and Connie even bought the wine! Marv had Fettuccini Alfredo in a parmesan cheese bowl and I had turbot with linguini. Both were delicious! For dessert I had a trio of gelato and Marv had the tiramisu. The illusionist’ show in the Princess Theater was completely packed so we returned to our room to work on pictures and the journal, before tumbling gratefully into our bed.
Alaska Adventures: Day 10--June 28
Mon. June 28: Today was absolutely magical. We woke to a calm sea and clear, blue skies, just as we prepared to enter Glacier Bay, all of which is part of the huge Glacier Bay National Park. Marv and I had our breakfast in the Horizon buffet at a table with a window view, because we had been told that the Icy Strait, through which we enter the Bay, was a prime area for seeing Humpback Whales, Stellar Sea Lions and Sea Otters. The brochure we had from the National Park Service shows that in 1750-1780 the glacial ice reached all the way into Icy Strait, causing Captain Vancouver to consider the area barren, forbidding and not worth exploring. Sandy was going to be on the bridge again, helping to spot sea life so we headed to the bow to see what we could see. And the show was beyond words. Both Sandy and later our tour director Connie said they had never seen anything like it. The Stellar sea lions were sunning themselves on the rocks at Gustavus Point, as was expected. Then the farther we went, the more pods of humpbacks we saw, seeming to be in a feeding frenzy! We saw pod after pod, breaching, blowing, and then flashing their flukes as they dove deeper into the water. Mixed in here and there were sightings of otters and sea lions, also feeding in the rich water. We picked up four National Forest Rangers as we passed the cove where the Visitor Center is. Once they joined us, the microphone on the bridge was turned over to one of them and we had a running commentary on where we were going and what we were seeing. Nearly all activities on the ship stopped for the day, including closing the Casino! The day is devoted entirely to experiencing the indescribable beauty of Glacier Bay. It was so clear and sunny that we could even see 15,300 ft. Mount Fairweather, which is right on the Canadian border. One of the rangers did an introductory talk in the Princess Theater that was so packed it was standing room only. We went all the way into the bay and up the farthest back inlet, Tarr Inlet, to the foot of Margerie Glacier. Margerie Glacier is the fastest advancing glacier in the North America and moves 7 feet a day, therefore it is constantly calving. We were lucky enough to see many calves fall into the water with a noise like thunder. Near it is the Great Pacific Glacier, which is so slow moving that is so full of debris that it looks like solid rock. The ship stayed there for an hour, turning 180° halfway through so the starboard side could see the spectacle. We left the inlet and went around the mouth of John Hopkins Inlet and looked back at Lamplugh glacier. In 1892 when John Muir visited the area to study it and reinforce his theory that glacial action had formed the Yosemite area, both these inlets were full of glacial ice. From there we slowly made our way out of Glacier Bay. It all took all day and we watched from on deck, in the dining room (where we grabbed a quick, light lunch about 2:30, because we couldn’t tear ourselves away), our state room, Ann & Shelby’s state room, and even the one hot tub on the stern that was left open. The sun was beating down there and it was very warm because it was protected from the wind. I stayed on that deck long enough to get sunburned! We had our dinner at 5:30 in the Sante Fe dining room so we could be back to view wildlife in Icy Straits. Marv had boneless pork chops and I had surf and turf (beef fillet and 3 shrimp) with a trio of peanut butter chocolate and white nectarine ice cream with red currant sorbet. About 6:30 we dropped the 4 Rangers to return to their station. As we retraced our route out, we again found many pods of humpbacks feeding, much to the surprise of Sandy, who was back at the microphone again. I was thrilled to actually see one of them leap all the way out of the water and land with a splash that Marv saw after hearing me squeal. By 8:15 we were through the Straits and no longer seeing whales so we met Ann and Shelby in the Explorer Lounge to hear the comic, Kevin Jordan’s, last show of the cruise. He was very funny and did a good show. About 10:15 we could see that there was actually going to be a good sunset into the mountains on our side of the ship so we hurried back to our cabin to watch and film it. As we stepped onto our balcony two Dall Porpoises were playing in the wake off the side of the ship, right below us. The sunset was spectacular and lasted for a long time as the color shifted, spread and changed. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.
Alaska Adventures: Day 9--June 27
Sun. June 27: We began the day with a continental breakfast brought to our cabin right at 8:30. From our balcony we watched a pod of Dall’s porpoises swim past the ship. Marv and I met Ann to get stamps on our Treasure Hunt give-away cards until Ann and I went to the Spa to see if we would win anything (we didn’t) and Marv walked to the very bow of the ship. All four of us went to the ship naturalist’s presentation on Hubbard Glacier and other nearby glaciers in Yakutat Bay, where we will arrive in the afternoon. By now it was very cold on the decks and we had to bundle up to be out. Marv and I got cheeseburgers at the grill and Ann and Shelby had pizza from the nearby pizzeria, which we all supplemented with items from the buffet, and we ate beside one of the inside pools, but it was still chilly. We went to the Fusion Club to see if we would win anything from the Treasure Hunt (we didn’t) and returned to our respective cabins to rest, journal, and watch our progress into Yakutat Bay into the early afternoon. Sandy, the naturalist, was broadcasting on the ship channel 35 from the bridge, explaining what we were seeing and helping to spot wild life. As we got closer to the bay and chances of seeing animals increased we bundled up and went up on the bow deck to watch, with Sandy’s voice coming over the PA to keep us apprised. It was very damp and cold out there and the PA speakers were hard to understand. But we saw cormorants, harbor seals and a bald eagle that sat on an iceberg for quite a while before flying a long ways right over the water. The bay here is quite full of large and small icebergs, so of which need to be avoided. With two harbor pilots guiding the ship we went as far in towards Disenchantment Bay as was possible. Unfortunately, with the heavy fog we weren’t able to see Hubbard Glacier. Seven miles wide and 75 miles long, it is the largest coastal glacier in North America. But we could see no sign of it or the mountains surrounding the bay. So they turned the ship 180° and we headed back out, hugging the shore on the port side a bit more than when we entered. Ann and Shelby came to our cabin in hopes of seeing more on our side. We went in and out of fog, catching occasional glimpses of the mountains and shoreline. At one point I could watch a dark headed, sleek Stellar sea lion swimming in the opposite direction near the side of the ship. As we pulled out of the bay however the fog totally set in and we could only see a few yards off.
Alaska Adventures: Day 8--June 26
Sat June 26: Our bags were due out at 8:30 but we weren’t leaving until 11:00, so we built our third fire and ate our breakfast and read or computed for a few hours. After updating the blog online at the lodge, it was time to board the motor coach once again for the two hour drive to Whittier. As we drove along we spotted more moose. Just outside Whittier we passed through the one-way mountain tunnel which takes 6½ minutes. It was built for trains originally and, until it was recently paved along the tracks, buses and cars had to load onto the railcars to get to Whittier. There are still no other roads into Whittier, a tiny fishing town where nearly everyone lives in one large building of condos. It was the main port for Alaska until the earthquake of 1964 caused extensive damage and people turned to Anchorage. Traffic into town goes on the half hour and, after one quick stop to see our first glacier up close, we drove slowly through it and then through town until it was time for our bus to disembark and go through security to board the ship. We got onboard the Diamond Princess at about 1:00 and went straight to our first delicious buffet meal. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the huge ship and its many decks. Ann and I managed to try two pools and two hot tubs on three different decks before we went for dinner. Our balcony cabin on the port side is quite luxurious and has all the comforts of home. From it we watched bald eagles soaring along the shoreline. Ann and Shelby have a similar cabin on the starboard side. We had hoped to have dinner in the Pacific Moon dining room but it was 6:45 and they were closing at 7:00 to prepare for the required emergency drill. Shelby needed to eat so we returned to Horizon Court for the dinner buffet. The drill (complete with donning of life jackets) took until 8:00 or so, when the ship cast off to cruise. We watched that from different decks. After we had seen enough, we got some dessert and coffee to enjoy. At 10:00 we went to the Explorers Lounge to watch the new “Alice in Wonderland” with Johnny Depp and Anne Hathaway. Ann and Shelby went straight to bed afterwards while Marv and I walked on deck a bit more. When we returned to our cabin about midnight we sat on our balcony and marveled at the large chunks of ice, both white and dark, floating by in the twilight until we were cold and sleepy enough to seek our cozy bed.